Mellow yet dramatic, giggly and flirty, Subansiri—the ‘golden river’—trails a dazzling path. A major tributary of the Brahmaputra, it drains the waters beyond the Himalayan ranges spanning from Tsona Dzong up to the Great Loop of the Tsangpo in Tibet. It then enters the eastern Himalaya at Asaphila into the rugged, isolated hinterland of Arunachal Pradesh’s Upper Subansiri District. Flowing like liquid emerald through dense rainforest, the river then charts a different course. Very difficult terrain with vertical rock faces, no road support for 150km of its run and sparse habitation in the lower reaches has kept a major part of this river’s raftable run isolated and remote. The river itself is demanding because of its heavy volume and flow. Our interactions with the warmhearted hill tribes further enhanced the otherwordliness of an uncommon, sometimes difficult, but extremely rewarding journey.