Gourmet Gruel

I’ve always thought of congee (Chinese rice porridge) as the frugal man’s food—a way of rationing rice in times of scarcity. But Chi, a south Delhi newcomer that specialises in this and other east Asian comfort foods, makes this unctuous pap worth the trudge. The generous bowl of hot gruel topped with steamed Hongkong fish, accented by slivers of ginger, had its rice-to-water ratio down to a craft, and came surrounded by an array of zesty condiments—fried garlic, chopped peanuts, freshly made chilli sauces. Chi’s menu holds several other gems. Like the earthy lo mein—noodles sauteed in oyster sauce piled high with chicken, garlic, celery and mushroom. And the laksa lemak claypot, a deeply flavourful Malay coconut noodle curry.

Sadly, despite its succession of culinary triumphs, and its cheerful ambience, Chi shoots itself in the foot with amateur, insouciant service. The waitstaff, although eager to please, are unable to explain the various dishes on their menu. And they’re forgetful. The coup de grace was when my companion was unapologetically served a dish he had not ordered. Still, if it can pull up its socks quickly, Chi holds enough promise to revive many a jaded palate.