Lucknow
Breakfast
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Sharma Tea Stall, Lalbagh, Hazratganj, near Novelty Cinema – Softest buns with creamy, homemade white butter and unique round samosas, besides the tea, of course.
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Bajpai Pooriwala, Hazratganj – famous sabzi is made with unpeeled potatoes
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Rahim Ke Kulche-Nihari, Chowk need no introduction
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Netram Pooriwala, Aminabad
Avadhi Meals
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Oudhyana, Taj Residency
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Falaknuma, Clarks Avadh Hotel – Offers an excellent Kebab platter
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Chhote Nawab, Hotel Sagar International, Jopling Road – Besides the kebabs, go for their Shahi Tukda and Zafrani Phirni. The bread basket is unique, specially the Taftan (a leavened rice flour bread)
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Kebabs from legendary Tundey Kebabi – Chowk & Aminabad Market
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Vahid Biryani, Aminabad
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Idris Biryaniwala, Chowk
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Narayan Veg, near Gurudwara – vegetarian kebabs made with dal, soyabean and mushrooms come quite close to the real thing
Snacks
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Guptaji ke thande dahi-bhalle – Used to be outside GPO, Hazratganj, now relocated to Saket, behind the zoo. Worth every bit of the hunt
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Shukla Chaat Bhandaar, Hazratganj – Matar Ki Chaat is delicious
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Capoor's Hotel, Hazratganj – The huge and heavy Basket Chaat is the speciality
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Dixit Chaat, Chowk
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Prakash Kulfi, Aminabaad Market – thick and creamy indigenous ice cream
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Also Moti Mahal, Hazratganj for kulfi
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Thandai from Raja Thandai, Chowk
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Aam Ka Panna off the roadside in summers
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Biscuits from Burma Bakery and Sundar Bakery
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Malai-Makkhan or Namash from stalls in Chowk
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Kashmiri chai off the roads in winters
Ram Asrey, Chowk
Sweets
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Ram Asrey, Chowk—Malai Paan is unique
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Sri Ram Sweets, Main Market, Canttn -- Doodh ki barfi is special
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Chhappan Bhog – Chhena Kheer and Aam Kheer and Aam Kulfi in summers are must-haves
Varanasi
Breakfast
Malaiyyo
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Tea at Pappu Tea Stall, Assi Ghat. Written about in Kashinath Singh’s Kashi Ka Assi
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Malaiyyo – over 10,000 shops all over during winters
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Kachori-Jalebi at Vishwanath in Visheswar Ganj, Chachi ki Kachori at Lanka or the innumerable stalls in Kachori Gali
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Lassi at Pahalwan Lassiwala, Lanka. Also his kadahi doodh in the evening and the sweet laung-lata
Kashi Chaat Bhandar, Gowdolia
Meals
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Bati-chokha at the stalls in Sigri
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Chaat/Snacks
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Kashi Chaat Bhandar, Gowdolia – try local specialities chooda-matar and tamatar ki chaat
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Dina Chaatwala
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Kesari Chaat Bhandaar, Neechi baag.
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Thandai at Mishrambu, Gowdolia or Baba, Gowdolia – with bhang mixed on demand
Sweets
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Sri Ram Bhandar is regarded as the oldest in Varanasi
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Ksheer Sagar, Sonarpura for sweets like chhena pulao, chuhara (dry dates) ke laddoo and mugdal (made with ground moong dal)
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Shri Basant Bahar, Lahura Beer for chooda-matar and mugdal
International
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Vatika Pizzeria, Assighat – delicious vegetarian, wood-fired, thin-crust pizzas and an apple pie to die for
Paan
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Keshav Tambool Bhandar near the Banaras Hindu University gate is the pick of the lot
