India’s skincare landscape is undergoing a dramatic shift, led by teenagers who are treating skincare like a trend rather than a science. Strong actives that were once used under clinical supervision, are now part of everyday routines for young people who want instant results or camera-ready skin. Dermatology clinics across the country are seeing a rise in barrier damage, sensitivity and premature pigmentation among teenagers who are unknowingly harming their skin. In this interview, Dr. Sonal Khade Ahuja explains why early use of actives is becoming a public skin health concern and what young users must understand before it is too late.
1. In recent years, how have skincare habits changed among Indian teenagers and young adults?
Skincare has now become a lifestyle choice. A few years ago, a typical teenage routine was a simple face wash and sunscreen. Today, many 16-year-olds start their day with a salicylic cleanser, follow it with a vitamin C serum and apply retinol at night even if they do not have acne or pigmentation. Skincare videos are everywhere, and young users try to copy routines meant for adults. Skincare is no longer just a necessity but a trend that reflects identity and aspiration.
2. Why are so many 15- to 22-year-olds using potent actives like retinol, AHAs and BHAs, and what concerns does this raise for you as a dermatologist?
Many 15-22-year-olds are turning to potent actives like retinol, AHAs and BHAs because social media has glamorised complex “anti-aging” routines and influencers often promote products without clarifying who they are meant for; leading teens to adopt ingredients intended for much older skin. As a dermatologist, my concern is that young skin already rich in collagen and naturally fast-renewing is particularly vulnerable to over-exfoliation, irritation, barrier damage, and sun sensitivity when these actives are overused or layered incorrectly. This trend can also delay proper acne care, worsen pigmentation in darker skin tones, and contribute to unhealthy beauty expectations. A simple, protective routine supported by consistent sunscreen use is far more appropriate for this age group than aggressive anti-aging actives.
3. What risks do these strong actives pose when they are used too early or too frequently on otherwise normal young skin?
The most common risk is irritation and weakening of the skin barrier. When teens use a glycolic peel twice a week along with a retinol serum at night, the skin reacts with redness, burning and flaking. Over time, repeated irritation weakens the skin’s natural structure and barrier. A teenager with normal skin can end up developing chronic dryness or breakouts simply because the skin is stressed by products it never needed. These are issues that could have been avoided with a simpler routine.
4. You often stress the importance of the skin barrier. How are young people unintentionally damaging it, and what does this mean for Indian skin tones in particular?
Young people often damage their skin barrier unintentionally by overusing strong actives like AHAs, BHAs and retinol, double-cleansing excessively, experimenting with multiple exfoliants at once, and often switching products based on trends rather than their skin’s needs. This constant stripping of natural oils weakens the barrier, causing inflammation, irritation, and increased sensitivity, and for Indian skin tones in particular, this damage poses a higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, uneven texture and dark spots that can persist for months. A compromised barrier also makes the skin more reactive to the sun and pollution are common triggers in our climate making gentle routines and daily sunscreen especially crucial for Indian skin.
5. Can you explain the concept of the anti-aging paradox, where products meant to prevent aging may actually speed it up for Gen Z?
The “anti-aging paradox” refers to the growing trend of Gen Z using potent anti-aging products far earlier than necessary often in their teens only to end up accelerating the very aging they’re trying to prevent. When young, healthy skin is exposed to unnecessary retinoids, strong exfoliants and harsh actives, it can trigger chronic irritation, barrier damage and increased sun sensitivity; without consistent sun protection, this leads to inflammation, collagen breakdown and pigmentation, all of which contribute to premature aging. In essence, by over-treating skin that doesn’t yet need these interventions, Gen Z risks creating long-term sensitivity and early signs of aging instead of delaying them.
6. Based on your clinical experience, what new patterns or skin concerns are you seeing more frequently among Gen Z patients today?
Ten years ago, the main concerns were acne, whiteheads and tanning. Today, many young patients walk in saying their skin feels tight, burns after washing or has developed unusual texture. These are classic signs of barrier damage. Before treating pigmentation or acne, we often have to work on restoring the barrier. For example, a young patient who used three actives at once needed a full month of calming and barrier repairing products before we could even begin targeted treatment.
7. How much influence do social media trends, influencers and filtered beauty standards have on the way teenagers choose and use skincare products?
A routine that goes viral overnight sets a new standard for teens. A creator may share a ten-step night routine or a weekly peel that leaves their skin glowing in a video. Young viewers try to replicate it without understanding their own skin type or the creator’s climate, lifestyle and skin type. Filters create poreless, texture free skin, and teens start believing that their natural skin is flawed. This social pressure is one of the biggest triggers for overuse of actives.
8. What long term consequences can repeated barrier damage and overuse of active ingredients create for adolescents as they grow older?
Repeated barrier damage and overuse of active ingredients during adolescence can set the stage for long-term skin issues, including chronic sensitivity, recurrent dermatitis, persistent redness, and a weakened ability to tolerate even mild products later in life. Over-exfoliation and irritation can also lead to stubborn hyperpigmentation, especially in darker skin tones, and may accelerate photoaging by increasing vulnerability to UV damage. In some cases, the skin’s microbiome becomes disrupted, making individuals more prone to acne flares, eczema, or perioral dermatitis as they grow older. Overall, compromising the barrier repeatedly in youth can create a cycle of inflammation and sensitivity that follows individuals well into adulthood.
9. What skincare approach do you recommend for Gen Z, and what changes are needed from families, brands and regulators to prevent a future skin health crisis?
The ideal routine for Gen Z is simple. A gentle face wash, a basic moisturiser and a sunscreen are enough for most. Actives should be used only when required and ideally after consulting a dermatologist. On a larger level, brands need clearer warnings on high strength products, parents or families should encourage children to follow age-appropriate routines after consulting a dermatologist and regulators should review the marketing of potent ingredients to teenagers. Prevention through education is the safest path forward.
About Dr. Sonal Khade Ahuja
Dr. Sonal Khade Ahuja is an internationally trained dermatologist known for her work in facial rejuvenation, skin sculpting and regenerative aesthetics. She practices in Navi Mumbai and has built a career of more than ten years focused on both clinical results and emotional wellbeing through her dermapsychology approach. She is the Founder of Skin Aesthete in Belapur, a patient centric clinic designed with European inspired luxury elements and equipped with global technologies such as Exion, Advanced Pico Laser, HIFU Face Sculpting and HydraFacial MD. Her clinic is also among the very few in India to offer Exion, a non-invasive technology that supports collagen and hyaluronic acid stimulation. Dr. Sonal has completed international clinical training in dermatology across Europe along with an MD or Diploma in Dermatology in India and advanced training in aesthetic dermatology, cosmetic procedures, laser technologies and regenerative medicine. She is known for her natural looking, non invasive rejuvenation techniques, her results driven treatment protocols and her commitment to long term skin health. Her work has been featured across lifestyle, beauty and wellness platforms and she is regularly invited to speak on skincare, holistic wellness and women’s health.
