Frittura Temptations

How much pizza can a city consume? If the enthusiasm of the knead-­­and-bake brigade is any indication, then Mumbai is packing away piles of the cheesy treat. For pizzer­ias—ranging from down-­market takeaways to fancy restaurants—have been popping up with regularity.

Pizza Metro Pizza has arr­ived as part of this optimistic, basil-flavoured wave. The Kemps Corner restaurant is airy, with posters of Vespa scooters and Italian street scenes. And an open kitchen in which traditional Neapolitan pizzas are kneaded and baked.

Many of the pizzas are white (without the tomato sauce) while others don’t have cheese (which horrifies my daughters, who are not too concerned about authenticity).

Eventually we start with a Frittura of Calamari (Rs 450)—a generous serving of fried calamari served in purple cabbage leaves, with some excellent tartar sauce on the side. Then we choose three pizzas that arrive at the table in a trademark 75 cm-long strip. The children fall upon the Capricciosa (Rs 950)—which is topped with mozzarella, tomato, ham and salami—and declare it ‘yummy’. The Quattro Formaggi (Rs 895)—a white pizza topped with four cheeses, including puffs of fresh mozzarella—is delicately flavoured and unusual. While the Frutti di Mare (Rs 850)—topped with prawns, clams and squid—has a fresh flavour.

Still, given the hype, the food disappoints. Although it’s just three met­­res from the kitchen to the table, the base is cold, chewy and limp. The iced teas (Rs 200) are also not the best—the strawberry is too dilute and the lemon too sour.