Hyderguda, Hyderabad.
Where do you get the best biriyani in Hyderabad? Most people automatically say "Paradise", but that’s just great branding, not necessarily great cookery. Those who really know their food would quietly point you, instead, to Cafe Bahaar.
Cooking biriyani is a fine art, as the meat has to be cooked inside the rice itself—and that calls for great skill and judgement. The biriyani here is near-perfect: rich but not greasy; spiced just right; the meat tender, pink and moist. It’s best eaten with just dahi ki chatni. But make sure you order mutton biriyani (chicken biriyani ain’t the real thing). If you’re brave you can also try their bheja fry or gurda masala.
We once made the mistake of asking what their specialities were, and were admonished by the waiter, "Dekho saab, yahaan jo bhi milta, sab special hota". The best way to end your meal is with a tiny cup of sweet, creamy ‘pouna’ chai (death for diabetics!). Their takeaway counter does brisk business, especially these days, during Ramzan. According to the Bulooki family, who run the place, people send their biriyani parcels to foodie friends and relatives in other cities—or, sometimes, even abroad.
