“The regal realm with the sorrowless name;
They call it Begumpura, a place with no pain
Not taxes or cares, nor own property there,
No wrongdoing, worry, terror or torture,
Oh my brother, I have come to take it as my own,
My distant home, where everything is right…”
(Begampura, a poem by Sant Ravi Das about a utopia, a city without sorrow, translated by J.S. Hawley and Mark Juergensmeyer, in their 1988 book, Songs of the Saints of India)
It is Sunday. The sun peers down, with not a trace of clouds in the clear blue sky. The cab takes a detour off the highway to a narrow road leading to Ballan village. It is about eight kilometres from Jalandhar, one of the major towns of Punjab’s fertile Doaba region, between the Sutlej and Beas rivers. The village has become well known as the site of the Dera Sachkhand Ballan, considered the most important Ravi Dasi dera in the area.
With Dera Sacha Sauda’s head Baba Ram Rahim Singh being sentenced to life for the murder of the sect’s former manager, the Deras—with their eclectic culture and hordes of dedicated followers—are back in news. There are numerous deras in Punjab, but what stand out are the Ravi Dasi deras of the doaba region, which have emerged as a site for Dalit assertion and counter-culture.
The Ravi Das sect has great influence among Dalits of the leather-working caste. In Punjab, which has the highest concentration of Dalits in India at about 32 per cent, about 80 per cent Dalits come from two main clusters: the Ravi Dasis or Ad Dharmis, who are leather-workers, and the Mazhabis-Valmikis, the sanitation workers. Among the latter, those who have become Sikhs are called Mazhabis and those who remain Hindu are called Valmikis. Those of the leather-working caste who have become Sikhs call themselves Ramdasiyas.
The Doaba region, also a hub of the Green Revolution, has a Dalit population estimated to be anywhere between 35 and 45 per cent, making the region the hub of Ravi Dasi deras. As we approach Dera Sachkhand Ballan, even GPS is not required to find where the dera is. I see crowds of people walking in the direction of the dera. The cab passes them by slowly, and we see a police barricade and a board announcing that our destination is close by.

A woman prays at Dera Sachkhand Ballan
The road turns left and the crowds get bigger. Stalls line up the entire stretch leading to the gurudwara-style structure that houses the headquarters of the dera. The large building has a dome and a canopy above it, with an arrow on the top pointing skywards. There are smaller domes on the left and right. Armed jawans of Punjab Police are stationed across the road.
I get down from the cab to feel the ambience of what is a massive congregation building up. I peer into a stall selling a variety of things, from toys to cloth. Various small and large portraits of the medieval saint Ravi Das are on display. There are also many portraits of Dr B.R. Ambedkar, India’s first law minister, chairman of the drafting committee of the Constitution and a pan-Indian Dalit icon. Ambedkar is depicted dressed in a blue coat, with some portraits showing him holding a copy of the Constitution and some others showing the parliament building in the background.
I make my way on foot towards the dera, buying a handkerchief to cover my head, just like the devotees who have taken time out on a Sunday to visit the place they hold in deep reverence. What is it that attracts people to this dera? They come on foot and in cars. And on a Sunday, their numbers can swell to several thousands.
Wearing a white kurta and pyjama, retired department of telecom employee Daulat Ram has an answer. “I have been coming here for 40 years. After my retirement, I decided to leave Delhi, where I was last posted, and settle in Jalandhar. This dera is unique,” says the 80-year-old, with a sparkle in his eyes. “Casteism was rampant in society. Those who were oppressed started the Ravi Das Dharm, inspired by the Banaras saint Ravi Das, who was a leather-worker by caste. This place is special because everyone is equal here. Not everyone gets the same honour in a temple or gurudwara. But here, there is perfect equality.”









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