It is noon on a Sunday at Punaura Dham, a Hindu pilgrimage site in Sitamarhi district of Mithila, Bihar. Women are sitting in groups around a lota (metal pot) and flowers, bananas and incense, murmuring religious hymns. They are performing Jitiya/Jivitputrika puja in the Punaura Dham quadrangle. Jitiya, celebrated in Bihar and Nepal, is a festival in which women pray for the well-being of their children.
About 150 km from Bihar’s capital Patna, Punaura Dham is the fabled birthplace of Sita. In these parts, people fondly call her Janaki, Maithili, Vaidehi, etc. The dham is now part of the new-age Ramayana circuit. Sitamarhi was carved out of Muzaffarpur in 1974. It’s far from the chaos of the city and the usual temple crowd. Every few minutes, devotees come, pray, take prasad from the purohit and leave.
According to the epic, it was in Punaura where King Janak of Videha—surrounded by Sadanira (Gandaki river), Kaushiki (Kosi river), Ganga and the Himalayas—was ploughing land, when he found the infant Sita under the soil. Spread over a large area, Punaura Dham has a well-maintained temple, pond, garden and samadhis of mahants who have served the temple in the past. Locals say the pond is where Sita was found.
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Along with Sita, there are idols of Ram, Lakshman and other deities in the temple, but for locals, it is a temple dedicated to Sita. On loudspeakers, the chant, “Sita-Ram, Sita-Ram…” plays on loop.
That an idol of Ram is also present in the temple next to Sita’s, is a mere coincidence. Its testimony comes from the story of the dham’s emergence as a pilgrimage site, which began in the 16th century.
Mahant in-charge Kaushal Kishore, 75, who has been living here since he was 10, recalls the myth about the place. “A mahant called Asharam from Lucknow had come here in the early 16th century. On hearing that Sita was born here, he started worshipping here. One day, a person carrying idols of Ram, Sita and other gods was passing by on a bullock cart. Asharam liked the idols of Ram and Sita and asked the driver to give them to him, but he refused, as he had to deliver them to someone else.” He had just moved a few metres when his cart broke down. Seeing this as a divine sign, he gave all the idols to the mahant. Asharam installed them here. Over time, the temple came up.”

While across the country, right-wing organisations are trying to polarise Hindu voters using Ram, for people of Mithila, and especially Sitamarhi and adjoining districts, Sita reigns supreme.
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In Punaura Dham too, there are no other traces of Ram. The chant playing on loop at the temple mentions Sita before Ram. A Janaki stuti (prayer) on paper hangs on a temple wall. “People come here to worship Sita. She is so close to the people of these parts that they have no idea this temple also has an idol of Ram,” says a purohit. “For youngsters, Sita is sister. For older women, she’s a daughter. Ram is the brother-in-law or son-in-law, not the mighty king whose name is nowadays proclaimed with clenched fists and red eyes,” he adds.
Shops have mushroomed near the dham of late, but business remains thin. Only a few festivals attract good business. A shopkeeper says, “All across, people are more attracted to Ram than Sita. Visitors to this temple are mostly locals.”
“Ram is not a warrior for us. He is a son-in-law whom we rightfully abuse,” says a middle-aged woman, with a blush. She was preparing for Jitiya puja with her 14-year-old daughter.
Suresh Sharma, a purohit, says, “Ram may be a fierce king for Ayodhya, but to us, he is just a groom. It is because of Sita that he never killed anyone in Mithila. The only time he picked up a bow here was at the swayamvara to win Sita.”
In traditional Maithili songs, Ram is mocked and abused. Beena Jha, a resident of Sitamarhi, sings these with enthusiasm. The opening lines of one such song goes: “Pratham katha ki pucchhiyan sakhi he, Raghukul ki gati nyari he/Kheer khaye baalak janmaulan, Awadhpuri ke nari he (Never before hearing the strange story of the Raghu dynasty, Have I heard of women getting pregnant by eating kheer, as in Awadh).”





























