From The Latest Issue: Inside Bayreuth, Germany—Where Baroque Grandeur Meets Wagner’s Festspielhaus

Northern Bavaria is an incredibly scenic part of Germany. Imagine craggy alpine mountains mellowing into verdant pastures, thick forests, and streams rushing along picture-perfect villages with their half-timbered farmhouses.I was travelling from Nuremberg to Bayreuth (pronounced Bai-Royt and not “Beirut,” as the Munich airport immigration officer corrected me sternly!) to attend the German National Tourism Board’s brand Summit and Convention, and I spent much of the hour-long journey transfixed by this almost Wordsworthian spectacle.Bayreuth is situated in Upper Franconia, between the Fichtelgebirge and Fränkische Schweiz ranges. It is blessed with rolling hills, limestone cliffs, forests, and the Red Main River (Roter Main), which winds through the city. However, the tourists who make their way here, often on day trips from Nuremberg and Bamberg, are as much drawn by the city’s unique historical character as by its picturesque setting.For journalists like us, it was a stroke of luck that the convention was organised in Bayreuth, the home of extraordinary monuments like the splendid Margravial Opera House, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, built in the 1700s by the incredible Margravine Wilhelmine, princess of Prussia and wife of Margrave Frederick of Brandenburg–Bayreuth. It is also where the famous German composer Richard Wagner built the Bayreuth Festspielhaus. This acoustically perfect concert hall still comes alive with music at the Bayreuth Opera Festival every summer.A Mecca Of MusicBuilt by the Italian theatre architect Giuseppe Galli Bibiena and commissioned by Wilhelmine on her daughter’s marriage, the Margravial Opera House is the only remaining preserved baroque theatre of its kind today. And nothing quite prepares you for the dazzling splendour inside, not even its grand façade designed by the architect Joseph St Pierre.The Margravial Opera House’s magnificent façade gives little indication of the opulent beauty that lies withinAs I sat in the concert hall, craning my neck to catch every detail, almost blinded by the brilliance of it all, I saw tier upon tier of gilded opulence—the ornate ceiling, the chandeliers, the ornamented loges, the vivid colours, the play of light and shadow—all coming together to create an unforgettable spectacle. I wondered what it would have been like to sit here in the mid-1700s when there was no artificial lighting and the hall would have been aglow in the light of hundreds of candles, in the chandeliers, sconces and on the stage.In contrast, Bayreuth Festspielhaus, the concert hall that Richard Wagner built, had none of the grandeur and drama of the Margravial Opera House, almost austere in its frugality. However, the aim of it was not to shock and awe with ostentation but to impress with the genius of its acoustics. Built in 1876, it has a pit beneath the stage for the orchestra to sit so that the sounds are amplified and reverberate through the hall. And every summer, when the Bayreuth festival is held, a lucky few who manage to get the tickets can revel in the beauty of Wagner’s soaring operatic works from The Ring Cycle to Tristan und Isolde and Parsifal. When we visited, we weren’t lucky enough to experience a live opera; however, we were treated to the next best thing: a recording of a piece of music whose notes rose and soared and filled the hall, giving us goosebumps as we listened in silence. Do note that the seats are notoriously uncomfortable, so be prepared for aching backs and posteriors as you sit through Wagner’s operas, which are often four to five hours long! Close to the Bayreuth Festspielhaus is Wahnfried, Wagner’s cherished villa, where he lived with his wife, Cosima. It now houses the Richard Wagner Museum, which is filled with the composer’s books, memorabilia, and musical instruments. In its garden lies Wagner’s surprisingly unembellished grave, near the graves of two of his beloved dogs, Russ and Marke.Wilhelmine’s WorldLike many European cities, Bayreuth is best explored on foot. While walking through it, as we did, you realise that many of its grand structures, not just the Margravial Opera House, owe their existence to Wilhelmine, an extraordinary woman who built some of the city’s most extravagant and artistic landmarks.Born into nobility in Berlin in 1709, Wilhelmine married Frederick in 1731. However, Bayreuth and its palace proved a disappointment for the Berlin-bred noblewoman. Not to be deterred, she built a world that suited her aristocratic and artistic preferences. Fortunately, her husband shared her love for the arts and architecture and supported her many projects that changed Bayreuth from an ordinary Franconian court to a Baroque showpiece.Some notable structures we saw during our walking tour included the Neues Schloss (New Palace, 1753–1758), which was built after a fire destroyed the old one. Decorated in the elegant “Bayreuth Rococo” style and considered a significant work of 18th-century German architecture, Wilhelmine is said to have personally overseen the design of each palace room.We wandered from room to room, from the opulent drawing room with its gold-plated ceiling to the palm room with its walnut wood panelling and gold ornamentation to the Japanese room with its Asian-inspired elements, marvelling at the young Margravine's artistic genius.The New Hermitage Gardens on the outskirts are another wonder of Baroque design and landscape artistry that Margravine Wilhelmine transformed and expanded. Here, we witnessed her somewhat eccentric creative genius on full display. The beautifully landscaped gardens are Bayreuth’s pride and joy. As we walked through its grounds after a short bus ride from the New Palace, it felt like we had stepped into an 18th-century period drama (incidentally, the Hermitage is one of the settings for the Netflix drama "The Empress"). With pretty walkways bordered by fruit trees (Green Galleries) to shady bowers designed to protect Wilhelmine’s alabaster complexion, the gardens at first instance appear to be a quiet pastoral retreat. But that’s only till one experiences the full extent of the Margravine’s fancy with its grottos, water elements and playful trick fountains. These are still operational today, as we discovered when we were herded into a grotto. We were unaware that the seemingly ordinary rock at the center concealed a fountain; when it suddenly sprang to life, water sprayed with force, causing the metal hood placed over it to sway and dance rhythmically with the flow.The New Hermitage Palace, completed in 1753, is the most striking building in the complex. Its façade is embellished with rock crystal and coloured glass. The complex is centred around a stunning Sun temple dedicated to Apollo and his mythological realm, where the water bodies represent the sea, the aviaries the air, and the gardens the earth.Wilhelmine is also associated with other works of whimsy, like the extensive Sanspareil Gardens on the outskirts of Bayreuth, which we could not visit due to a lack of time.Wilhelmine was not just involved in building these significant landmarks, but was also an accomplished artist, poet, composer and author, who died at the age of 49. To wander through Bayreuth is to sense her spirit—in every stone, every whimsical detail, echoing the brilliance, creativity, and carefree soul of someone who lived for art, design, and architecture.Planning Your TripHow to get thereBayreuth is well-connected to cities like Munich and Nuremberg by trains, buses and taxis. The Deutsche Bahn trains run regularly and are the most convenient way to reach the city. Plus, you’ll be able to enjoy the fantastic scenery at leisure. Where to stayBayreuth has plenty of accommodation options, from budget to mid-range; however, the Liebesbier Art Hotel in the heritage Maisel & Friends brewery stands out for the outstanding street art that adorns its interior and outdoor spaces. The hotel, which has 67 rooms and nine apartments, features art by 80 street artists from around the world. Where to EatFor a memorable meal, drive down 1.5 hours to the Posthotel Alexander Hermann, a family-run luxury hotel in the beautiful Wirsberg town, and dine at Aura, their two-Michelin-star gourmet restaurant run by celebrity chefs Alexander Hermann and Tobias Bätz. Try the set tasting menu that has reimagined ingredient-forward regional dishes. The restaurant also serves vegetarian options. FAQsQ1: Where is Bayreuth located in Germany?Bayreuth is located in Bavaria, southern Germany, between Nuremberg and Hof. It’s easily accessible by train or car.Q2: What makes Bayreuth famous?Bayreuth is world-renowned for its Margravial Opera House and Richard Wagner’s Festspielhaus, both central to European music and theatre history.Q3: Who was Margravine Wilhelmine of Bayreuth?She was a Prussian princess and patron of the arts, responsible for transforming Bayreuth into an artistic and architectural marvel in the 18th century.Q4: What is the Bayreuth Festival?Founded by Wagner, the Bayreuth Festival is an annual celebration of his operas, held at the Festspielhaus every summer.Q5: What is special about the Festspielhaus?It was designed by Wagner himself with revolutionary acoustics and stage design, influencing opera houses worldwide.Q6: Is Bayreuth worth visiting for non-classical music fans?Absolutely. The city’s baroque gardens, palaces, museums, and local culture offer a rich experience beyond music.Q7: What other attractions can visitors explore in Bayreuth?Highlights include Eremitage Park, the New Palace, Wahnfried House, and Bayreuth’s historic Old Town.Q8: When is the best time to visit Bayreuth?Visit between May and September for pleasant weather and to catch the Bayreuth Festival (July–August).Did You Know This Circus In Germany Creates Magic Without Any Animals?