The village of Raia undulates tenderly, rising to hills and sinking to level fields. It is a rich land with the River Zuari skirting its borders that are marked blood red with broad mud banks, which protect the Khazan or reclaimed lands near the river. The Khazans are fertile fields where everything that sustains a Goan can be grown – red rice, vegetables like tambdi baji (amaranth) and even small fish and succulent prawn, whose spawns are released in these fields. Every decade, the Khazans are flooded by the river water to cure the fields of pests.
Ignacio Fernandes sits on the banks of a Khazan, waiting for his friends to join him this summer afternoon. He trudged up the tiny road that leads to the settlement of prawn breeders at Zuari village, a spot of land reclaimed from the river. On his way, he passed by the huge Rachol seminary that stands like a white sentinel, watching over the green fields. The bank Ignacio sits on will be swallowed up by the rising waters of the river during high tide, but right now, Ignacio dips his feet into the ankle-high water on the side of the bank and has used an old basket fashioned from palm fronds to catch some fat prawns. He skewers them on a twig and fashions a fish line from a stick and a small piece of rope, attaches a tiny prawn on one end and aims for a pool of frisky mackerel, waiting for them to bite.