Ice, Ink, And Identity: Meet Noor Jahan, The Woman Saving Ladakh's Artistic Heritage

Shesrig Ladakh stands in an assured silence in the heart of Leh's Old Town amidst crumbling mud-brick homes and winding alleyways steeped in memory. This independent art conservation initiative is more than a studio; it's a spirited stand against the slow erosion of cultural identity in one of India's most fragile heritage zones. At the helm of this effort is Noor Jahan, an art conservator and national-level ice hockey player, whose journey is as unconventional as it is inspiring.With a Master’s and PhD in Art Conservation, Jahan's career began with freelance projects across India, but it was her deep-rooted connection to Ladakh and mentorship from conservation experts Dr Sreekumar Menon and Dr Maninder Singh Gill that eventually led her home. “We saw Ladakh changing rapidly,” she recalled. “Modern infrastructure, rising tourism, everything was transforming the landscape. If we didn’t act, we risked losing more than monuments, we’d lose memory.”A Bastion Of Living HeritageIn 2017, Jahan and her cousin Wajeeda Tabassum leased a dilapidated heritage home and transformed it into a conservation studio. Shesrig was born not just from academic ambition, but from a sense of urgency and responsibility. The studio now serves as a bastion of living heritage, restoring thangkas, murals, manuscripts, and sculptures with a philosophy rooted in respect for the local culture.But conservation, for Jahan, is never an isolated act. “Every piece we work on carries stories, rituals, and community memory,” she explained. Before any restoration, her team, which is comprised mainly of local conservators, engages with monks, local elders, and artisans to ensure cultural context is preserved alongside physical form. “It’s not just about saving objects. It’s about reinforcing identity.”This respect for community is central to Shesrig’s approach. From training local assistants to conducting awareness workshops, Jahan’s work empowers those who live among the heritage to become its guardians. “When people feel ownership, they’re more invested in preservation,” she said.Challenges That RewardShesrig’s projects have taken the team to the remotest corners of Ladakh, often facing extreme logistical challenges. "One such mission took place in June 2020, right in the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic,” said Jahan. “We had secured funding through the Himalayan Cultural Heritage Foundation to work on a small but historically significant 14th-century temple called Chomo Phu, tucked away in a gorge in the Nubra Valley. There were just three of us on the team, and to work efficiently, we had no choice but to camp in the gorge. All our food supplies and conservation materials had to be carried in from the nearest village, often on the backs of monks who generously supported the effort."The team set up tents for cooking and sleeping, but what they hadn’t anticipated was the challenge posed by local wildlife. "On the very first morning, we woke to discover most of our food supplies had mysteriously vanished, and it didn’t take long for us to spot the animal footprints that revealed the culprit. From then on, safeguarding our food became a daily struggle, alongside the already demanding conservation work."They also had to deal with the occasional breakdown of the generator, which added another layer of unpredictability to the project. “It tested our resilience,” she said. “But it was also one of the most rewarding experiences of my life.”Balancing Art And AthleticsJahan's passion isn’t limited to conservation. She’s also a trailblazing athlete; part of India’s first generation of women ice hockey players. “I learned to skate on a frozen pond in my village,” she said.“It was seen as a boys’ sport, so we had to fight for everything: gear, time, respect.” She added how the girls she played with were incredibly determined, and together they learned to speak up, push back, and support one another. That same spirit drives her today. Whether on the ice or on scaffolding inside ancient monasteries, Jahan thrives on purpose and discipline."As part of the first generation of women ice hockey players in India, we’ve come a long way from those early days on the village pond. Our journey has been tough but deeply rewarding, and we’re proud to have helped open doors for the next generation of girls in the sport."Balancing these twin passions, she said, isn’t easy. But with meticulous planning and unyielding passion, Jahan continues to excel. “Ice hockey gives me identity and strength; conservation gives me meaning and a way to give back to my community, to safeguard the cultural heritage of Ladakh,” she said. “Both challenge me in different ways, but both feel essential.”As a Muslim woman working largely in Buddhist spaces, Jahan has navigated questions of identity with grace and conviction. “Heritage belongs to all of us,” she explained. “I’ve never approached my work through a religious lens, only through the lens of respect.”Regarding the future of Shesrig, Jahan dreams of building a full-fledged conservation centre in Ladakh with specialised labs and academic programmes to train future conservators. “We need more professionals, more local engagement, and a cultural shift that sees heritage not as a relic, but as a living responsibility.”She added that she hopes to see Ladakh University introduce conservation as part of its academic programmes. "Education and awareness are critical because ultimately, we are all custodians of our heritage."Choglamsar in Ladakh: A Village Where Artisans Preserve Folklore On Wood