Exploring Motijheel, The Magnificent Garden That Shaped Bengal's Political Landscape

Motijhil, a once magnificent garden and palace near Murshidabad, was a site of lavish celebrations, political intrigue, and poignant moments in the history of the Nawabs of Bengal. The story of this palace intertwines opulent festivities, family dramas, and the shifting tides of power during the 18th century.A Garden Of Grandeur And CelebrationIn 1750, after naming Siraj-ud-Daulah his heir, Nawab Alivardi Khan visited Motijhil, a beautiful garden built by his son-in-law, Nawazish Muhammad Khan. Here, Shahamat Jang, a trusted ally, invited the Nawab to a lavish dinner, extending an invitation that would later lead to a moment of reconciliation. Siraj-ud-Daulah, also present, was forgiven by Alivardi after a previous quarrel over the destruction of Alayar Khan's kettle drums, a gesture that symbolised the Nawab's ability to mend familial ties.The garden of Motijhil was not only a venue for political affairs but also a place for grand celebrations. During Holi, the 200 cisterns of the garden were filled with coloured water, and over 500 women, adorned in jewels and opulent robes, would emerge from every corner of the garden. These lavish displays of wealth were a testament to the grandeur of the Nawabi court.One of the most significant events in Motijhil's history was the engagement of Shahamat Jang's daughter to Shukrullah Khan, son of Sarfaraz Khan. However, the wedding celebrations were tragically interrupted by the death of Akram-ud-Daulah, Siraj-ud-Daulah's brother, from smallpox. His death not only cast a shadow over the festivities but also led to a wave of disorder, with goods prepared for the wedding being looted by the public. Akram-ud-Daulah was buried in Motijhil's garden, and Shahamat Jang, devastated by the loss, spent the remainder of his life mourning, never to return to the garden's former vibrance.Personal Tragedies And Political StrugglesMotijhil was also a place of political decisions and resolutions. When Shahamat Jang sought to dismiss Mirza Ali Naqi, the darogha (superintendent) of Motijhil, due to dissatisfaction with his services, Nawab Alivardi Khan adviced caution. The Nawab stressed the importance of considering Mirza's virtues and warned that dismissing him could create unrest and damage Shahamat Jang's reputation.The grandeur of Motijhil extended to royal weddings, which were grand affairs. Marriages within the Nawabi family were celebrated with massive expenditures, with the cost of perfumes, fireworks, and illuminations reaching 10 lakh rupees. The festivities would last for months, involving thousands of soldiers, farmers, and common folk, all partaking in the celebration. The Nawab showered his family with extravagant gifts, including robes and jewels, distributed generously among friends, family, and even entertainers.Motijhil And The Power Shifts Of BengalAs the political landscape shifted, the death of Akram-ud-Daulah marked a turning point in Bengal's history. Nawab Alivardi Khan, seeking to consolidate power, ordered the execution of Husain Quli Khan, a threat to Siraj-ud-Daulah's rule. Soon after, Shahamat Jang passed away, and his supporters buried him in Motijhil's garden. Ghasiti Begam, Shahamat's widow and Alivardi Khan's beloved daughter, assumed a central role in the administration.Ghasiti Begam's aspirations to control Bengal were thwarted by the untimely deaths in her family, including that of her adopted son, Akram-ud-Daulah. With Alivardi's death looming, Siraj-ud-Daulah and his cousin Shaukat Jang found themselves in a fierce power struggle, each vying for control of the Nawab's vast territories. Ghasiti, who could not directly participate in the political arena, used her wealth and influence to support rivals to Siraj's rule. Motijhil, surrounded by a heavily guarded lake, became a symbol of Ghasiti Begam's power and a potential threat to Siraj's authority.When Alivardi Khan died, Siraj-ud-Daulah moved swiftly to secure his position by confiscating Ghasiti Begam's treasure from Motijhil and integrating it into his assets. Ghasiti, however, refused to surrender her troops and continued to live in Motijhil, arguing that her father had ordered her presence there. The treasure, including jewels, 40 crores in gold and silver, and thousands of horses, was seized without bloodshed, marking the beginning of her confinement.Motijhil had long been linked to the battles against the Marathas during Alivardi Khan's reign, where the Nawab fought valiantly with fewer resources. The palace had witnessed both political and personal turmoil, with figures like Shahamat Jang and Husain Quli Khan frequenting the site during its earlier years. Despite its role as a place of wealth, celebration, and tragedy, Motijhil ultimately became a symbol of the shifting power dynamics in Bengal during a turbulent period.Today, the ruins of Motijhil stand as a reminder of a bygone era filled with stories of grandeur, tragedy, and the ebb and flow of power. The once-vibrant garden and palace reflect the complex political and familial struggles that shaped the course of Bengal's history under the Nawabs.The InformationThings To Do And Places To See Motijhil has been transformed into a popular destination in Murshidabad after having been in ruins for over decades, ever since the defeat of Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah. This location presents a large number of green areas filled with different trees and colourful flower plants, which add a rich flavour to the history of Murshidabad. Motijhil offers a wonderful time to the tourists in the evening when they eagerly wait to watch the son et lumière. Apart from the light and sound show, the visitors also enjoy several amusements such as boating, cycling tracks, toy trains, etc. Motijhil has thus been preserved as a perfect tourist destination for those interested in Murshidabad Nawabi Heritage, along with a green environment. Hazarduari Palace, built in 1837 by Duncan McLeod for Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah, features a thousand doors, 900 real and 900 fake. Converted into a museum, it houses an impressive collection of armour, paintings, and Chinese ivory. How To ReachThe driving distance from Motijhil Park to Hazarduari Palace is four km. It is open from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm all days except Friday. It is located at Siraj Ud Daulah Road, Hazarduari, Murshidabad, West Bengal 742149. It takes 4 km (13 mins) to reach Nizamat Imambara from Motijhil. Places To Visit NearbyThe Imambara, built in 1740 AD, is the largest in Bengal and India, rebuilt in 1847 after fires. Its beautiful architecture can be seen from Hazarduari Palace. It is located in Lalbagh - Hazarduari Rd, Hazarduari, Murshidabad, West Bengal 742149. A magnificent blend of European and Indian architecture, the Cossimbazar Rajbari of the Roys has been meticulously restored to its former splendour. The driving distance from Motijhil to this palace is less than ten km. Its address is 12, Cossimbazar Rd, Raninagar, Rajbari Para, Kasim Bazar, Berhampore, West Bengal 742102. You may also visit Nashipur Palace, which is about 20 minutes from Motijhil. The Nashipur Royal Palace, built in the 2nd half of the 19th century by Raja Kirtichand Bahadur, was the court of Debi Singha, a strict tax authority under the British, and now houses a museum showcasing personal artefacts and Hindu Purana idols. The Jahan Kosha Cannon, also known as the great gun, is located in the eastern limits of Gobra Nala, Katra Jheel. Originally resting on a carriage with wheels, it is made of eight metals and weighs 7,900 kg. The intricate ironwork on the carriage and trunnions remains visible.