Agumbe: Cherrapunji Of The South

Observing reptiles and amphibians is not on most people’s to do list but if you are part of the small group of naturalists who love to watch and photograph herpeto-fauna, then you are likely to enjoy a visit to the little known hill station of Karnataka, Agumbe.

Located about 60km by road from the famous pilgrim town of Udupi, Agumbe is better known as winter destination. The undulating hills are covered in a dark green mantle while clouds drape the horizon in a misty veil. One of the wettest places in India, it is often called the ‘Cherrapunji of the South’.

Some of the popular attractions around Agumbe include the 14th century Gopalkrishna Temple perched on a hill in Kabbinale village, a 17th century Jain temple atop the Kundadri Hill, and several waterfalls. If you are lucky, you may also catch a view of the sunset over the hills from the designated point on the Agumbe Ghat. Not many know that several episodes of the popular television serial Malgudi Days based on RK Narayan’s novel,  was shot here. The heritage house has now been converted to a homestay. The hills around Agumbe offer many trekking trails; many fo them lead to magnificent waterfalls, which are best enjoyed post monsoon and in winter.

The rainforest around the village, which is adjacent to the Someshwara Wildlife Sanctuary, is home to many varieties of reptiles and amphibians, such as the forest calotes, the south Indian flying lizard, the dwarf gecko, Malabar pit viper, Travancore wolf snake, Common Indian toad, Bicoloured frog, Bronze frog, Torrent frog, vine snake, insects etc. One of the key species of the region is the King cobra, said to be the longest venomous snake in the world. In fair weather, you may also encounter birds and other animals.

The place shot to fame among naturalists and researchers, when well-known herpetologist and widlife conservationist Romulus Whitaker founded the Agumbe Rainforest Research Station (ARRS) near the village in 2005. It is a permanent field station of the Madras Crocodile Bank Trust, located in the middle of the forest, established to ‘study and conserve rainforests through applied ecological research, outreach programs and partnerships’. One of the key projects initiated by ARRS is the King Cobra Telemetry Project. Those interested in gaining hands on experience, may apply for volunteering at ARR

Also located in Agumbe is the Kalinga Centre for Rainforest Ecology (KCRE), an environmental education organization founded in 2012 by wildlife biologist P Gowri Shankar and naturalist Sharmila Rajasegaran. KCRE not only offers residential internships to qualified people interested in wildlife research and conservation but also popular programmes (treks, etc.) for nature lovers.

Information: Agumbe is 60km from Udupi. The nearest airport is Mangalore (about 100km away by road). Accommodation is limited. You may stay at KCRE  or at Seethanadi Nature Camp (about 15km from Agumbe), operated by Jungle Lodges & Resorts.

It is always advisable to be accompanied by a knowledgeable local person as a guide during explorations, especially during monsoon. Also, be prepared for leech attacks and take precautions as far as possible. Some fo the trek routes and trails to the waterfalls fall within sanctuaries and nature reserves and may require prior entry permits from the state forest department.