Exploring Tskaltubo: Georgia’s Forgotten Spa Town And Its Healing Legacy

In the heart of western Georgia, just outside Kutaisi, lies a town quietly swallowed by time. Tskaltubo is a place where wellness once met architecture in its most ambitious form—a dream city of healing waters and majestic sanatoriums, now softened by moss and memory. Once a star of Soviet-era spa culture, the town stands today in quiet defiance of decay, its faded grandeur attracting curious travelers, history lovers, and urban explorers alike. Visiting Tskaltubo feels like walking through a perfectly preserved echo, where crumbling bathhouses and vine-covered balconies still carry the whispers of lives once lived.Why Visit Tskaltubo?Tskaltubo offers a rare and hauntingly beautiful experience for those drawn to history, architecture, and the quietly surreal. Once a thriving spa town under the Soviet Union, it now invites visitors to wander through its spectacularly abandoned sanatoriums—vast, decaying structures that seem frozen in time. The town’s natural thermal springs, once frequented by none other than Stalin himself, still flow at a constant, healing temperature, offering a glimpse into its past as a center for wellness and recovery. For photographers, urban explorers, and the historically curious, Tskaltubo is a dreamscape—just 9 km from Kutaisi, yet feeling worlds away. Here, the intersection of forgotten political grandeur, architectural ambition, and natural therapy creates an atmosphere unlike any other in Georgia.Tskaltubo’s Past: A Town Built On HealingLong before the Soviet Union left its stamp here, Tskaltubo was known for its naturally warm, mineral-rich springs, prized since the 12th century by Georgian royalty for their healing properties. But its real transformation came in the 1930s, when the USSR reimagined the town as a flagship health retreat.Over 22 grand spa complexes were constructed, featuring elegant classical columns, decorative façades, wide staircases, and meticulously landscaped gardens. Tskaltubo was designed not just for wellness, but for wonder—a place where soldiers, workers, and party elites alike came for state-sponsored rest.The town’s radon-carbonated waters, naturally heated to 33–35°C, were said to treat ailments ranging from arthritis to infertility. By the 1980s, over 125,000 people were visiting Tskaltubo annually. Among its most notable guests was Joseph Stalin, who had his own private bathing facility—Spring No. 6—which continues to function today as a public spa.The Present: Between Ruin And RevivalAfter the collapse of the USSR, the flow of funding and tourists dried up almost overnight. The once-grand sanatoriums were abandoned, and many fell into ruin. Some became makeshift housing for families displaced by the conflict in Abkhazia—a situation that continues today in certain buildings. Tourism slowed to a trickle, but in recent years a quiet resurgence has begun. Around 15,000 to 20,000 visitors now come annually to explore the town’s surreal landscapes. Several properties, including Tskaltubo Spa Resort and Hotel Prometheus, have been partially restored, offering wellness treatments alongside faded elegance. Meanwhile, the Georgian government has announced plans to revitalise Tskaltubo as a modern health destination, though progress remains slow.Everything You Need To Know Before VisitingHow to Get ThereTskaltubo is located just a brief drive from Kutaisi, a city that can be reached via train, bus, or direct international flights. Local marshrutkas (shared vans) and taxis operate daily from the city centre.Money MattersThe local currency is the Georgian Lari (GEL). Most of the places here accept only cash, although you might find some hotels that accept cards. ATMs are available in Kutaisi.Language TipsGeorgian is the national language. Russian may help in rural areas, and English is spoken in tourist lodgings but not widely elsewhere.ConnectivityWi-Fi is common in guesthouses. SIM cards (Beeline, Magti, Silknet) with data plans are cheap and can be purchased in Kutaisi.Dress Code And Local EtiquetteTskaltubo is casual but conservative. Modest, comfortable clothes are best, especially for exploring ruins or spa facilities.Safety NotesWhile the town is safe, ruins can be unstable. Avoid climbing structures or entering without guidance. Carry a flashlight and wear sturdy shoes.Cultural RespectMany sanatoriums still house displaced families. Be discreet, avoid photographing private spaces, and engage with kindness.Best Things To Do In TskaltuboExplore the semi-decayed marvels of sanatoriums like Iveria, Metalurgist, and Spring No. 6, where history lingers in every crumbling detail. Just 6 km away, the Prometheus Cave beckons with its karst formations, shimmering lakes, and eerie lighting, offering a striking contrast to the town’s faded grandeur. Take a stroll through Spa Park, once meticulously landscaped and now overgrown and dreamlike—a perfect spot for quiet reflection and memorable photos. For a true taste of Tskaltubo’s healing legacy, book a soak in the radon-rich waters at Bathhouse No. 6 or through your hotel’s spa services. And don’t forget your camera: the unique blend of ruin, revival, and untouched stillness creates a cinematic backdrop ideal for photography and urban exploration.What To Eat In TskaltuboThough the town is quiet, the local food scene offers a rich taste of Georgian hospitality, with most meals served in guesthouses or family-run cafes where recipes have been lovingly passed down through generations and ingredients come fresh from nearby farms. One must-try dish is Khachapuri Imeruli, a regional take on Georgia’s famous cheese bread that is round, golden, and filled with slightly sour local cheese. Another staple is Lobio, a hearty bean stew often served in a clay pot alongside cornbread and tangy pickles, embodying the flavors of Western Georgian cuisine. For something deeply flavorful and comforting, Chkmeruli is a traditional chicken dish cooked in a clay pot and generously covered in a rich garlic cream sauce. The Imeretian Salad offers a refreshing mix of cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and herbs, sometimes enhanced with crushed walnuts, while Badrijani Nigvzit features thin eggplant slices rolled around a savory walnut-garlic filling and topped with vibrant pomegranate seeds. For something sweet, Churchkhela—a traditional Georgian treat made from grape must and nuts—is often found at roadside stalls or markets.Local drinks are just as inviting, with Tsolikouri and Krakhuna wines from the Imereti region offering crisp white varieties known for their fruity and floral notes. Visitors may also encounter Chacha, a strong homemade grape spirit that’s best sipped carefully.Guesthouses in Tskaltubo typically prepare home-style meals using seasonal ingredients, but for a greater variety, the nearby city of Kutaisi, just 15 to 20 minutes away, boasts several restaurants such as Palaty, Baraka, and Sisters, where traditional dishes are served with a contemporary twist.Where To Stay In TskaltuboTskaltubo offers a wide range of accommodations to suit different preferences and budgets. The Tskaltubo Spa Resort is a partially restored Soviet-era complex that continues to provide therapeutic spa services, blending history with wellness. Nearby, Hotel Prometheus offers comfortable, modern accommodations just a short distance from the Prometheus Cave. For a more intimate experience, family-run guesthouses provide cosy rooms, home-cooked local meals, and personalised service that truly reflect the warmth of Georgian hospitality.When To Visit TskaltuboSpring (April to June) – The best time to visit for blooming landscapes and mild temperatures.Autumn (September to November) – Ideal for crisp weather, golden foliage, and fewer tourists.Summer – Can be hot and humid, but still manageable due to the town’s tranquil pace.Winter – Fewer visitors and a quieter atmosphere; some spa services remain open year-round.Travel Tips For TskaltuboWhen exploring the abandoned buildings of Tskaltubo, be sure to bring sturdy shoes and a flashlight, as many structures can be unstable and poorly lit. Always check whether entry is permitted, since some buildings are unsafe or still inhabited. When photographing areas where refugees reside, approach with respect and sensitivity. The town is easily accessible from Kutaisi, with regular marshrutkas (minibuses) and taxis providing convenient transport. For a deeper and safer experience, local guides are available to lead explorations of the sanatoriums.FAQs: What Visitors Often AskIs it safe to walk around Tskaltubo alone?Yes, but be careful when exploring abandoned buildings. Avoid entering unstable structures and explore only during daylight.Are all sanatoriums open to the public?No. Some are closed, unsafe, or privately inhabited. Always ask locals or hotel staff before entering any building.Can spa treatments still be booked?Yes. Bathhouse No. 6 is open to the public and some hotels offer massages and bathing rituals.Do I need to book accommodation ahead of time?Booking ahead is recommended, particularly during the busy spring and autumn months.Are vegetarian meals available?Yes. Georgian cuisine offers several plant-based staples, though options may be limited in smaller guesthouses. Always inform your host.Can Tskaltubo be visited in a day trip?Absolutely. It’s just 20 minutes from Kutaisi, making it ideal for a half- or full-day escape.Do locals speak English?Some staff at hotels or tour companies may speak basic English. Otherwise, using a translation app or a few phrases in Georgian is helpful.What should I pack?Cash, walking shoes, a flashlight, light layers, camera gear, and curiosity.Wine Lover’s Guide To Georgia: Top Vineyards, Local Cuisine & Where To Stay