On a bright, sunny day in early October, 2009, I joined a group of river runners to journey down the Ganga from Kanpur to Varanasi. Amidst a modest crowd of curious onlookers, the 12 of us sped along in three inflatable boats, each powered by 40-horsepower engines, cutting through the tranquil waters of the river.
Starting from the historic Massacre Ghat in Kanpur, our fluorescent orange boats quickly became a source of fascination. Such vessels were rare in these waters, where smaller, more traditional boats were typically used. People gathered along the banks, while children ran alongside, waving enthusiastically. As we made our way toward Dalmau, between Raebareli and Fatehpur, human habitation grew sparse. While the boats navigated the shifting channels to find the smoothest path, I saw it as a unique opportunity to learn firsthand how a river flows and shifts with time.