As I take the winding road from my villa at the Golden Tusk Resort to the reception area, a classroom of birds erupts noisily. At 6 a.m. the sound, unlike the school kid variety, is not altogether undesirable. It helps rid me of residual drowsiness.
I climb into a waiting Gypsy and the guide, Suresh, tells me we're going to spot much more than just the tigers of Corbett National Park. "You'll see the tigers if they want to be seen", he says. "But keep your eyes open". It's natural for people to expect to see tigers on their first safari but you need to remember that you're simply a guest in pure animal territory.