As much of India celebrates Diwali with illuminated homes, prayers and festivities, rural communities in Chhattisgarh mark the occasion with Devari, also known as Dewari or Diyari, a festival rooted in agrarian life, cattle, community relationships and Gond folklore. Thousands of years of cultural history also survive in the ancient temples and monasteries of Sirpur, which has recently gained international attention following its inclusion in UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List. Together, these traditions offer a glimpse into the many layers of Chhattisgarh’s cultural identity.
A Festival Beyond the Familiar Diwali
Celebrated on the new moon night of Kartik, Devari is observed prominently by Gond communities in and around Bastar. While mainstream Diwali is popularly associated with the return of Lord Rama to Ayodhya and the victory of light over darkness, Devari carries its own narratives, centred on the celebration of agricultural labour and the mythical first marriage in the Gond pantheon.
Also known as Shepherd’s Day, the festival honours the dhorai, or shepherd, whose work sustains village life. Cattle owners invite the shepherd for a meal, acknowledging his labour and contribution throughout the year. In the evening, shepherds visit households with music, dance and folk songs, tying garlands made from the roots of the Palash tree around cattle’s necks. Buffaloes and cows receive different traditional garlands, while an oil lamp burns through the night in the village cattle enclosure, or gauthan. The celebrations culminate in gifts of paddy, symbolising gratitude and the close relationship between agricultural livelihoods and community life.
Devari also carries a deeper significance in Gond oral traditions. According to local folklore, the festival marks the first marriage between Ishar and Gaura, also known in some traditions as Gaura and Gauri. During the night, women lead a procession carrying earthen pots containing oil lamps, visiting households and gathering young women for a symbolic wedding procession. Preparations include decorated wooden trays representing the bride and groom, adorned with flowers, paddy and lamps. Music, rituals and communal participation bring the village together until dawn. These customs offer a window into a living cultural tradition in which agricultural cycles, cattle, kinship and oral histories remain intertwined.
Sirpur: A Landscape of Faith and Architecture
While Devari preserves cultural memory through community practices, Sirpur offers material evidence of the region’s historical and artistic achievements. Situated on the banks of the Mahanadi, the ancient settlement flourished between the fifth and twelfth centuries CE, emerging as a centre of political, religious and commercial activity. Under the Panduvamshi rulers, particularly during the seventh century, Sirpur witnessed an important phase of temple and monastery construction.
Its archaeological remains reflect Shaiva, Vaishnava, Buddhist and Jain traditions within a shared cultural landscape. The brick-built Lakshmana Temple, dedicated to Vishnu, stands out for its intricate architecture, sculptural details and elaborate doorway depicting Vishnu resting on the serpent Shesha. The Gandheshwar Mahadev Temple, Surang Tila, Ram Temple, Rajmahal and remains of the Market Complex provide further evidence of the settlement’s religious, political and commercial life.
Sirpur was also a significant centre of Buddhist monastic activity. The Anandprabhu Kuti and Swastik viharas preserve evidence of monastic life, while the Teevardeo Mahavihara features carved entrances depicting animals, Panchatantra stories and scenes from everyday life. More than 2,000 antiquities have been associated with the site, including Buddhist, Hindu and Jain sculptures that reflect its artistic diversity.
Heritage, Recognition and the Road Ahead
Chhattisgarh Chief Minister Vishnu Deo Sai has welcomed Sirpur’s inclusion in UNESCO’s Tentative List as an important step towards bringing the state’s cultural heritage to international attention. The state government sees the recognition as an opportunity to strengthen conservation efforts and promote tourism.
Devari and Diwali together reflect the richness of India's festive traditions, while Sirpur adds another dimension to Chhattisgarh's cultural legacy. As families celebrate the festival of lights through rituals, songs, prayers and community gatherings, the ancient temples and monasteries of Sirpur stand as reminders of the region's rich artistic, spiritual and historical past. From the living traditions of rural communities to the architectural treasures of an ancient settlement, Chhattisgarh's heritage finds expression in many forms. As Diwali brings people together to celebrate light, hope and prosperity, the growing recognition of Sirpur offers an opportunity to bring greater attention to the state's cultural identity and traditions that continue to be passed down through generations.
