Past The Mandalay Thoke

A small signboard in the shape of a doll welcomes visitors and sets the tone for this charming eatery. Dolls, wooden owls, plump teapots and Mere piya gaye Rangoon-­style umbrellas conjure up a colourful corner of Burma. As does the creative menu. Burma Burma specialises in vegetarian Burmese food—a brave step, given that Burmese cuisine is heavily dep­endent on seafood and meats. But the tantalising pages of salads and stea­med buns make you feel at ease. We start our meals with bowls of hearty soup. The Peppery Vegetable Broth (Rs 180) bobs around with garden-fresh veggies, while the heartier Burmese Bean Curd Soup (Rs 180) is a hit.

Being a salad-person, I’m excited about the Mandalay Laphet Thoke (Rs 320) and the Samusa Thoke (Rs 290)—versions of the famous Burmese dish that is a cross between chaat and salad. The Laphet Thoke turns out to be piquant, made of fermented tea leaves, spro­uts, nuts, tomato and tossed with garlic and sesame seeds. While the Samusa Thoke pro­ves that the Burmese can make a delectably crunchy salad out of anything—including a stodgy samosa.

The Rice Dumplings (Rs 280) are fried, chewy morsels that go well with sauces. While the Steamed Buns (Rs 250) are mil­dly-flavoured. The Nanji Kaukswe (Rs 290),  a dry variation of Khau Suey, with a strong coconutty flav­our, was disappointing. The Spicy Veg Curry (Rs 280) is rat­her generic. But the Mo Hin (Rs 320), a mushroom stir-fry, is enjoyable. Our meal ends with a steaming pot of Japanese Sencha (Rs 250). A day later, the Grap­efruit Thoke and Royal Mya­n­mar Cha beckoned us!