Chennai Corner

Culture Vultures
Many say Chennai is the cultural capital of India and, four months into my stay here, I cannot argue with that.The city is bursting at its seams with culture--whether it is the month-long margazhi thiruvizha where music and dance concertsregale audiences, or the film festivals, theatre or crafts melas--there seems to be something all the time for the rasikas of every persuasion.

While eyeball attention and mind space were both occupied with the Jallikattu --the ancient sport where men tame the raging bull -- which was eventually held after the Supreme Court allowedit -- but another popular festival meant primarily to revive other folk arts was unfolding at different venues across the metropolis. Scheduled to end today, the Chennai Sanghamam is on its second annual outing.

One tends to be cynical if politicians are behind festivals, often justifiably so, but in this case Rajya Sabha MP and CM M.Karunanidhi's daughterKanimozhi (who is also a poet) has brought a different kind of energy that has made the week-long Chennai Sanghamam a magnet for all kinds of people. It was an idea that was born 18 months ago when Kanimozhi said there was a need to have some cultural activity at Pongal to revive the spirit of the harvestfestival: "Pongal is not just a farmers' festival. It is an occasion for thanksgiving. In urban areas where the celebrations were veering from tradition, we wanted to make Pongal moremeaninful"

"Initiating dialogue with people through culture and arts--that is what Chennai Sanghamam is all about," says Fr Jegath Caspar, founder of Tamil Maiyam which is organising the cultural extravaganza.Kanimozhi adds, "We ultimately want the Sanghamam to become a people's movement, wherein the generous sponsors, the talented performers and the excited audience will collaborate to produce this festival of the city and make it famous worldwide, like maybe the New York festival." 

Bigger And Better
As against 10 centres last year, this year the Sanghamam was held at 20 parks all over the city. While last year, 600 artistes had performed, this year there were 1,300 artistes. Whilesabhas (where the Margazhi music festival is held) are marked by the elite and some who come just to show off their silks and diamonds, this festival had "commoners" and the middle class in their casualclothes as well. For senior citizens, the music and dance was something they could imbibe while walking briskly around the jogging track in their track-suits and sneakers. For the kids, it was a glimpse of culture while they rolled around the skating rink on their skates or slid down the slippery slide or even as they went up in the air on the swings that many of these parks have.

Rural Arts 
Many growing up in the city had never heard of--much less seen--Oyil Attam performed by girls from Arasapatti using handkerchiefs, Periyamelam Attam performed by men over 60 or even the Badaga dance perormed by the Badaga community of Nilgiris district. Kumayan, who performed PerriyamelamAttam, says: "We dance while we play the drums and I learnt this from my grandfather and father." Many other folk dances including Poikal Kuthurai, Kali Attam, Puli Attam, Kombu Isai were showcased with energy and enthusiasm.

Then there was Sinkari Melam performed by a 16-member troupe from Kottayam that has fourdifferent rhythm patterns. The audience participation was huge. Said a pleased Shalk Kumar, who headed the troupe, "The best part was that many women jumped in to play the Chenda that is usually played by men."

There was folk music like Villupattu (a musical based on mythology), a puppet showthat had dancing chettiar bommais. For many of the performers, some of whom had not even ventured outside their villages, coming to Chennai andperforming before such an appreciative audience was one of the highpoints. For many artistes in indigent circumstances because TV and films have taken over entertainment, the Sanghamam not only gave them a chance to brush up on their rusting skills but also brought in money giving them dignity. Some of the money earned last year was used to train artists in choreography and also give them standardized costumes.

Last year's sanghamam led to 967 underprivileged children from government schools being trained in folk arts.And the icing on the cake was to have city folk showing interest in learning the art.

New Place, New Tunes
Not just folk artists, even those who normally perform in the hallowed ambience of a music academy got a chance to showcase their skills to a different audience in an unconventional surrounding and none of them sounded supercilious. "Very interesting", "very refreshing" was how some Carnatic musicians, who had performed in sabhas some weeks ago, described this experience. "I have always believed that Carnatic music is something everyone can enjoy and not an elitist art form," said Bommbay Jayshree who found her audience--sprawled on the grass or just standing--clapping along as she sang."

Where else would an autorickshaw driver or a labourer get a chance to listen to classical music? "Their response is contrary to the perception that only those who understand the grammar of Carnatic music can enjoy it," she says.

Five Star Food
If folk culture is for the soul, then can tradition be far behind? The South India Culinary Associationhad brought traditional food, cooked by five star chefs. Served on paper plates with papernapkins (yes, there were trash cans too), for an average of Rs 25 per person, one got a taste of traditional cuisines.

The famous Jigardhanda (a kind of falooda), that is made in just one shop in Madurai and has people queuing for it, was sold by the cupful. Then there was the celebrated Iruttu kade halwa from Tirunelveli, Nadar food, Konganadu food that had Poondurainadu biryani accompanied by Pollachi kurma, Murukku from Manaparai, Palkova from Srivilliputhur and Kothu paratha. Chef Nabojit Ghosh of the Taj Coromandel, which had a kumbakonam food stall at the Mylapore venue said, "There are people coming to us and asking what tomorrow's menuis!" Clearly, it is not just the soul that's getting satiated here, butother cravings too.