Vagamon is a small, charming hill station, nestled at the border of Idukki District, lying at the end of potentially uncomfortable, twisting mountain roads. At the outset, Vagamon does not appear to promise anything extraordinary. But the hill station’s sleepy stature and commonness serve to distract visitors from what it can offer: nature at its most glorious, paths and trails to explore, and adventures to be had. It begins with the surprisingly picturesque end of the drive, where a tall hill towers over visitors to welcome them into the folds of Vagamon’s beauty.
The cool air and calm welcoming ambience of the town makes Vagamon among the most beautiful of Idukki’s hill stations. Apart from verdant spice plantations, a quiet monastery and luxurious resorts, Vagamon has been made famous by a string of three hills, each dedicated to a different religion, coexisting peacefully to symbolise religious and cultural harmony. It is difficult not to be touched by this quiet reflection of religious tolerance.
ORIENTATION
The Vagamon town itself is a tiny collection of shops and small businesses, and all sights and resorts are located nearby, not actually in the town limits. The Three Paras, the Kurisumala Ashram, the NRI School and the resorts are located 10 minutes from one another.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Vagamon is best suited for people who love the outdoors. A trekking and adventure paradise, the little hill station offers many ways to explore the landscape, ranging from pilgrimages to nature trails. The land is inviting, ideal for long, peaceful walks and exploratory treks, most of it untouched by commercial tourism. Visitors can discover the unmarred splendour of the area on their own or with local guides arranged by the resorts.
The Three Paras
Vagamon is best known for the three adjoining paras (hills), each of which is dedicated to one of Kerala’s main religions: Islam, Hinduism and Christianity. A sense of tranquility and breathtaking views await visitors at the top of these hills. Vehicles can only reach a certain point, after which visitors will have to cover the remaining journey on foot. It will take at least an hour to climb each hill, and strong, comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
The first of these hills, Thangalpara, houses the mausoleum of Sheik Fariduddin, who is also recalled in the Kanjiramattom Mosque in Ernakulam District. The Thangal hill is also known for its rock formations.
Location 5km from Vagamon, on Elappara Road, 12km from Muruganmala and Kurisumala
Muruganmala is dedicated to Murugan, the son of Lord Shiva. A rock-cut temple on one side of this hill draws pilgrims regularly.
Location 5km from Vagamon, adjacent to Kurisumala
Kurisumala, the third hill, is home to the Kurisumala Ashram, an important pilgrimage spot for Nazrani Catholics. Fourteen crosses, at regular intervals, line the path up the hill. At the foot of the hill is St. Thomas Mount, a centenary memorial with a flight of 120 steps leading to a statue of St. Thomas.
Location Near Vazhikadavu Forest Checkpost, next to Muruganmala
Kurisumala Ashram
Founded by Abbot Francis Acharya, this Cistercian abbey is nestled amidst the Sahya Hills. A Belgian by birth, Fr. Francis became a naturalised Indian citizen, passing away in 2002. His tomb greets visitors as they make their way towards the main building of the ashram.
There are about 20 monks in residence at this monastery at any given time. The simplicity of life at the monastery is evident at every turn – from the low stone buildings that serve as homes for the monks to the furniture-less dining area. A pervasive air of silence paradoxically resounds throughout the ashram. The monks spend their time in prayer, meditation and manual labour, making their living from the dairy farm on the premises.
Visitors are welcome at the ashram for day trips or overnight stays. Guests eat their meals with the monks and learn their ways through observation. Those who stay on also get to visit the dairy farm, where day visitors are not permitted. The rooms are nominally priced, inclusive of meals. Those who wish can donate for the upkeep of the monastery.
Timings 8.00am–6.00pm Tel 04822-289277
The NRI School
Located near the base of Kurisumala is the Labour India Indo-American International Gurukalam. This school follows the traditional gurushishya system of learning. An interesting symbol of Vagamon’s inclusive cultural heritage, the school is not a typical tourist attraction. The Gurukalam also rents out cottages to visitors.
Email info@gurukulam.com
WHERE TO STAY
This lovely hill station is becoming increasingly popular. Be sure to book well in advance.
Vagamon Heights’ Windshadows Resort (Tel: 04869-248206, Cell: 09847197150; Tariff: ₹3,500–5,500) is scenically located atop a hill tucked away in an isolated part of a plantation estate. They have six cottages here. The resort organises paddle boating in a nearby lake, and hiking and trekking expeditions. There is a friendly, homely feel that is absent in many other hotels.
Holiday Vagamon (Cell: 07736964777, 09961410131; Tariff: ₹2,500–4,500) in Kambipalam is a boutique resort with 10 rooms and a beautiful treehouse. They have a restaurant and offer paragliding and boating. The location is good and the views awesome.
Winter Vale Green Stay (Cell: 08111807771, 09048322916; Tariff: ₹3,100–7,000) too has a good location with breathtaking views. Go trekking, boating or simply enjoy around a campfire.
In the town lies, Chillax Vagamon (Tel: 248235, Cell: 09447128874; Tariff: ₹1,750–3,500), with spacious, clean rooms and good food. Green Palace Residency (Tel: 248541, Cell: 09495759541, 09447868070; Tariff: ₹1,500–3,500) has 18 rooms. Home-cooked meals are offered.
Another option is the Econest Asha Sadan Resort (Tel: 04822289267, Cell: 09847914519, 086061 83859; Tariff: ₹1,300–2,000) in Kurisumala with rooms and valley-facing cottages.
WHERE TO EAT
Most of the restaurants in Vagamon are found in the hotels and resorts, offering authentic Kerala delicacies. Wind Shadows offers the typical Kerala meal of red rice, sambhar, vegetables and chicken curry, along with some north Indian fare as well. Winter Vale offers multi-cuisine fare. Chillax has a restaurant.
Asha Sadan
On the Kurisumala Ashram grounds is Asha Sadan, built by the famous architect and Padma Shri awardee Dr. Laurie Baker, MBE, over 50 years ago. Baker’s signature brick buildings and homes can also be seen in the state capital, Thiruvananthapuram, the best known examples of his work being the Chitralekha Studio and the houses in the Archbishop’s Compound. He also designed the tourist cottages at Ponmudi. Asha Sadan is special because it is the first house Baker ever built in Kerala.
While it is a bit run-down, Asha Sadan remains as it was when first conceived. The structure has a large, sloping, tiled roof that sweeps down the sides of the stone cottage. The cottage has been converted into a motel, warm and welcoming compared to most heritage hotels, notably because the rates are adjustable depending on the income of the person wishing to stay there. Yoga and reiki sessions can also be organised.
Tel 04822-289267 Cell 09847914519/ 8606183859 Email econest007@gmail.com
FAST FACTS
When to go All year round; March to May can be quite warm, though
Tourist Offices
District Tourism Promotion Council, Civil Station Kuili Mala, Painavu PO, Idukki, Tel: 04862-232248, Telefax: 04865-231516, W dtpcidukki.com
Tourism Information Office, Kerala Tourism Vagamon, Cell: 09961017450
GETTING THERE
District Idukki
Location In the Sahya Range of the Western Ghats the border of Idukki and Kottayam Districts, 45 km E of Palakkad
Distance 151km SE of Kochi
Route from Kochi NH49 to Thripunithura; SH15 to Ettumanur and Vaikom; SH32 to Erattupetta; SH14 to Vagamon
Air Nearest Airport: Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery (141km/3.5hrs). Prepaid taxis (Tel: 0484-2610115, extn: 2107) to Vagamon will cost between
₹2,850 and ₹3,210
Rail Nearest Railhead: Kottayam (72km/ 2hrs). Taxis to Vagamon cost between ₹1,500 and ₹1,800 approximately
Road Vagamon is connected to Kochi via Thripunithura (93km), Vaikom (90km), Thalayolaparambu (82km), Ettumanur (53km), Pala (39km) and Erattupetta (25km). From Kottayam, take the MC Road to Ettumanur and follow the aforementioned route, or drive to Vagamon via Pambadi, Kanjirapally, Thidanand and Erattupetta. SH14 (Erattupetta-Peermade Highway) links Vagamon to Peermade (25 km) near Thekkady
Bus The nearest KSRTC Stand is at Eratupetta (27km; Tel: 04822-272230). From Kottayam (Tel: 0481-2562935/ 08) and Kumily (Tel: 0471-2501180), take any bus plying the Eratupetta-Peermade route and get off at Vagamon