Darbhanga: Bihar’s Royalty

Darbhanga, one of the major cities of north Bihar, was once renowned as a cultural and educational centre. Today, it comprises the twin towns of Darbhanga and Laheriasarai, the seat of the district administration. Darbhanga is also known for its mangoes, especially the Malda variety. It is said that Mughal emperor Akbar planted around 40,000 mango trees in Darbhanga, and this started a tradition of mango plantation here. If you visit here in season, you can get fresh mangoes picked directly from the orchards.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Darbhanga Raj

The Raj Darbhanga, a family of zamindars (landed gentry), trace their ancestry to the early 16th century, beginning with Mahesh Thakur. Darbhanga Raj was their estate. These zamindars had dominion over large parts of north Bihar. Their estate was said to cover nearly 5,000 villages and over 6,000 sq km. They ruled from the town of Darbhanga and have left behind a vast complex of palaces, temples, gardens and lakes.

Shyama Temple, dedicated to Goddess Kali

After the 1934 earthquake, the British gave the title of ‘Native Prince’ to Maharaj Kameshwar Singh of the Darbhanga estate. He got a fort constructed, whose entrance was modelled on the Buland Darwaza of Fatehpur Sikri. A moat was built along the wall of the fort. Only three sides of the fort had been completed when a High Court order stayed its construction. After independence, work on the fort was abandoned. The fort has been recognised as a heritage site and it encloses the Ram Bagh, which is spread over an area of 85 acres. There is a temple inside the fort, whose idol is said to be made of Italian marble and French stones.

The rulers of Darbhanga estate built many palaces as well. Maharaj Lakshmishwar Singh built the Lakshmishwar Vilas palace, also known as Anand Bagh Bhawan, in the 1880s. It had to be rebuilt after the earthquake of 1934. The Durbar Hall of the palace was modelled on Louis XIV’s palace in Versailles.

Following the earthquake of 1934, Maharaj Kameshwar Singh built the Nargauna palace, an earthquake-resistant structure. Many luminaries graced the halls of Nargauna Palace, including viceroys like Lord Linlithgow and Lord Wavell and Dr S Radhakrishnan. There was a special residence in the palace known as ‘Jaipur Suite’. The suite was completely pink, and was built to host Sawai Man Singh II, the Maharaja of Jaipur and his wife Gayatri Devi.

Path leading to Bela Palace

Path leading to Bela Palace

Kameshwar Singh constructed the Bela Palace for his brother Visheshwar Singh. It is considered the most beautiful of all of Darbhanga’s palaces. Most of these buildings were later donated to the Kameshwar Singh Sanskrit University and Lalit Narayan Mithila University.

Shyama Temple

The Shyama Temple, located one kilometre west of Darbhanga railway station in the Lalit Narayan Mithila University, was built in 1933 on the pyre of Maharaj Rameshwar Singh. In fact, the area was the graveyard of the Darbhanga royal family and many temples were built on the pyres of the royal family. There is an imposing 10-ft-high statue of Goddess Kali in the temple, which is said to have been built in Jaipur with stones imported from France. The ceiling has tantric signs, which apparently emanate positive energies and free devotees from materialism.

Manokamna Mandir

This white marble shrine, located beside Nargauna Palace in the Lalit Narayan Mithila University campus, is dedicated to the god Hanumana. According to legend, Lord Rama, after his work on earth was over, returned to Baikunth, his dominion in heaven. But to ensure the protection of dharma on earth, he blessed Hanuman with eternal life and bade him to ensure that the rule of dharma was adhered to. Hanuman is thus the main deity of this shrine. Praying to Hanuman here apparently makes your manokamna (wish) come true. Unusually, devotees carry pencils and pens to write their wishes on the walls of the mandir.

Manokamna Mandir

Another popular site is the Malechched Mardani Mandir, a Shakti cult temple, which is located inside the fort.

Chandradhari Singh Museum

Established in 1957, the museum is located on the bank of Manasarovar Lake, close to the Darbhanga junction. It houses the collection of Chandradhari Singh, a resident of Ranti, Madhubani. Among its eclectic exhibits, you will find a collection of guns, exquisite old mirrors, Mughal miniature paintings, modern water-colours, black basalt stone sculptures, Nepalese and Tibetan brass statues and stuffed animals. There is also a library in the museum.

Maharaja Lakshmishwar Singh Museum

Established in 1977, the museum has a collection of artefacts donated by Prince Subheshwar Singh of the Darbhanga royal family. It is named after Maharaja Sir Lakshmishwar Singh, GCIE (1858-98), the erstwhile king of Darbhanga. The exhibits of the museum include the throne of Rameshwar Singh, the royal bed, Grecian-style statues and beautiful ivory and wooden objets d’art. Don’t miss the exquisitely carved white palki (palanquin).

The museum is close to the Chandradhari Singh Museum.

A mural at Ahilya Asthan

Syed Saad Ahmed

Ahilya Asthan

Ahilya Asthan is one of the most popular temples of the district. It is located at Ahiari village.

There is an interesting story behind the origin of the temple. Ahilya was the wife of the learned rishi (sage) Gautam. Ahilya herself was created out of water by Lord Brahma as the most beautiful woman, and was wedded to Gautam. Lord Indra, enamoured of her beauty, lusted for her and once, when her husband was away from home, Indra assumed his form made love to Ahilya. When Gautam returned, he found out what had happened and cursed her, turning her into stone. He then became an ascetic and left for the Himalayas, but before leaving, he assured her that the curse would eventually be lifted by the son of King Dashrath.

Later Lord Rama, travelling with his brother Lakshman and their teacher, Vishwamitra, to King Janak’s court in Mithila, removed the spell when he visited the saint’s ashram on the way.

Maharaj Chhatra Singh Bahadur of Darbhanga built the current structure in 1817. The temple is the site of a large fair during the festival of Ramnavami, which occurs in the month of Chaitra in the Hindu calendar (March-April).

Kusheshwar Asthan

Kusheshwar Asthan is a Shiva temple that devout pilgrims throng throughout the year. Fourteen waterlogged villages of Kusheshwar Asthan block have been designated as a bird sanctuary. Spread over a vast area of 7,000 acres, the sanctuary has 202 lowland lakes and attracts migratory birds from as far away as Mongolia and Siberia. Among the more notable visitors at the sanctuary are the marbled teal, Indian darter, white-winged wood duck, Indian skimmer and Dalmatian pelican (of which there are only 665-1,000 pairs left in the world) and Siberian crane.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

All the hotels here have basic amenities such as attached baths, hot water, room service and televisions. Hotel AP Palace (Cell: 07488585430; Tariff: ₹1,400-3,900) is in Lalbagh. Hotel Beena Mansion (Tel: 06272- 224001, Cell: 07761855932; Tariff ₹850-3,000) is located near Ira Palace. Hotel Ira Palace (Tel: 250779, Cell: 07631280108; Tariff: ₹ 700-3,500), in Laheriasarai, has a restaurant. Hotel Rama Residency (Tel: 233241, Cell: 09905910710; Tariff: ₹ 830-4,500) has Internet and is located in Ayachi Nagar. Finally, Hotel Shyama Regency (Cell: 09973011112; Tariff: ₹ 1,200-2,500) is at Bela Modh. Both Hotel Shyama Regency and Hotel Ira Palace have in-house restaurants that one can try.

When to go October to March Location In northern Bihar, bounded in the north by Madhubani, in the south by Samastipur, in the east by Saharsa and in the west by Sitamarhi and Muzaffarpur Air Nearest airport: Patna Rail Nearest rail: Darbhanga Junction