For most Biharis, Begusarai brings to mind the Barauni Oil Refinery. Built in 1964 in collaboration with the Soviet Union and Romania, the refinery is vital to the economy of the region. A former communist stronghold, the town was earlier referred to as the ‘Leningrad of Bihar’.
The name Begusarai is said to come from begum (queen) and sarai (inn) – the Begum of Bhagalpur used to visit Simaria Ghat (a bank of the River Ganga) on pilgrimages.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Kanwar Lake
Kanwar Lake, Bihar’s largest wetland, is home to a bird sanctuary that attracts migratory birds from as far as Central Asia during the winter. Covering an area of 63 sq km and flanked by dense forests, it is a major attraction for bird-watchers and ornithologists.
This lake, however, has largely dried up due to the clogging of its inlets and water sources and the bird population has come down drastically. Encroachment of land and poaching are also responsible for the decline in the number of birds.
On the southern edge of Kanwar Lake is Jaimangalagarh, an ancient temple for the worship of the goddess Jai Mangala. The temple is as popular with monkeys as with devotees. A fair is held here every Tuesday and Saturday. Excavations in the region have revealed that it was a major administrative and cultural centre during the reign of the Pala dynasty.
The Harsai stupas, a group of four Buddhist clay-built stupas, are a few kilometres away from Kanwar Lake, near Garhpura village. Discovered in 2012, the stupas are threatened by agriculture in the vicinity, although the Arachaelogical Survey of India has initiated efforts to preserve them.
Radheshyam Mandir
Built in 1857, the Radheshyam temple has a unique structure – more influenced by Colonial buildings than by traditional temple architecture. Built on a 1-metre-high platform, the building is rectangular in shape with a shikhara (tower) at the back and tall, arched windows and doors. The walls inside the temple have murals depicting mythological stories – from the Mahabharata, the Ramayana and those of Radha and Krishna.
The building is in a state of disrepair and although the paintings have faded and are masked with cobwebs and dust, it is not difficult to imagine how beautiful they must have once been.
Naulakha Mandir
The Naulakha Mandir is one of the most famous landmarks of Begusarai. The domes of the temple, decorated with inlaid glass work, are especially attractive.
Begusarai Museum
The Begusarai Museum has a small but interesting collection of sculptures, manuscripts, coins, pottery, bricks and toys dating to as far back as the 2nd century CE. Many of the artefacts were uncovered from excavations in Naulagarh, Birpur, Jaimangalagarh and other historically significant sites in the district. The museum was under renovation at the time of print, so call before you visit.
Timings 10.00am-5.00pm, Photography prohibited
KP Jayaswal Archaeological Museum
The KP Jayaswal museum is set on the premises of GD College, one of most renowned colleges of Begusarai. The museum is to the right of the entrance. On the grounds of the college, there is a statue of SK Sinha, the “Prime Minister of Bihar” who laid the foundation stone of the college.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Begusarai has many good hotels. Hotel Yuvraj (Tel: 06243-265524, 264780; Tariff: ₹999-9,000), at Zero Mile, is a luxury property with suites. There is also a restaurant, bar, Wi-Fi and locker facility. Hotel KDM Palace (Tel: 242526, Cell: 09031735010; Tariff: ₹1,950-6,500) on Harhar Mahadev Chowk, is a luxurious property with restaurants, beauty parlour and Internet facility. Hotel Kapson (Tel: 230470, Cell: 09155332222; Tariff: ₹1,900-5,400) in Lohiya Nagar has spacious rooms and a restaurant and bar. Hotel Park Inn (Tel: 245857, Cell: 09939800801; Tariff: ₹800-2,000) is close to the market. Others include Hotel Devi Darbar (Tel: 264279, Cell: 09479228833/ 34; Tariff: ₹1,250-3,550) and Hotel Sayonara (Tel: 244078, Cell: 09709454993; Tariff: ₹600-1,430).
Most hotels listed here serve Indian and Chinese fare. KDM’s Dawat Mahal serves delicious Indian, Chinese as well as Continental dishes. Their S4 restaurant offers lip-smacking chaat and south-Indian fare, besides Indian sweets. There are a also few good eateries like Celebration and Ahaar Utsav for vegetarian and non-vegetarian Indian food, and James for Indian and Chinese. Mahavir Mishtan Bhandar, one of the oldest shops in Begusarai, has an excellent variety of sweets.
When to go October to March Location Situated in northeastern Bihar, 177 km from Purnea and 124 km E of Patna Air Nearest airport: Patna Rail Nearest rail: Begusarai