India Flags Pakistan-Made Fairness Creams Over Heavy Metals Presence

India’s top drug regulator has warned the public against usage of two skin-whitening creams labelled “Made in Pakistan” after testing found excessive levels of heavy metals and confirmed that the products were not authorised for sale in India.

The Central Drugs Standard Control Organisation (CDSCO) under the Union Health Ministry has named ‘Goree Beauty Cream’ and ‘Chandni Whitening Cream’ in a public health alert issued on September 8. The regulator said neither product had been granted the mandatory registration certificate for import and sale in India.

More importantly, testing and analysis by the CDSCO found that the creams contained heavy metals beyond specified limits. According to the regulator, such exposure may pose health risks, including toxic effects.

The alert is significant because skin-whitening and fairness products are applied directly to the skin and may be used repeatedly, sometimes for long periods. The presence of excessive heavy metals is particularly concerning because some metals, including mercury, can be absorbed through the skin and may affect organs such as the kidneys and nervous system when exposure is significant or prolonged.

Under India’s regulatory framework, cosmetics manufactured for sale require a licence from the State Licensing Authority. Imported cosmetics, meanwhile, have to be registered with the Central Licensing Authority before they can be legally marketed in the country.

The manufacture and import of cosmetics are governed by the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940, and the Cosmetics Rules, 2020, while standards for cosmetic products are prescribed through the Bureau of Indian Standards.

Drug Controller General of India Rajeev Singh Raghuvanshi said cosmetic products sold to consumers must meet the required safety and regulatory standards.

The latest warning also puts the spotlight on the risks consumers face when buying cosmetics through informal channels or online listings where the source, manufacturer or regulatory status may not be immediately clear.

The players in the sector have also pointed out the availability of some products identified by regulators as unauthorised that have appeared on online marketplaces, sometimes with conflicting information about their country of origin.

Those who have already purchased them have also been asked not to use them. The regulator has additionally cautioned consumers against similarly named products.

The notice also asks consumers to check the label carefully before purchasing cosmetics. For domestically manufactured products, consumers should look for details such as the manufacturing licence number, name and details of the manufacturer, batch number, date of manufacture and expiry date.

For imported cosmetics, the registration number is another important detail.

This is particularly relevant when buying skin-lightening products, which may be promoted with claims of quick or dramatic changes in skin tone. Consumers should not assume that an attractive package, a familiar-sounding brand name or an online listing means that a product has been cleared for sale in India.

If a consumer notices suspicious or incomplete labelling or other violations, CDSCO has advised reporting products manufactured in India to the respective State Drugs Controller. Complaints concerning imported cosmetics can be reported to the DCGI.

The regulator has also directed establishments and individuals not to sell, distribute or advertise the two identified products. Regulatory enforcement units have been asked to ensure that the unauthorised cosmetics are not sold within their jurisdictions.

Dr Divya Sharma, cosmetic dermatologist and hair specialist practising in Bengaluru, said she had seen patients with changes typically associated with prolonged steroid use after using fairness creams and soaps manufactured in Pakistan.

“The rot is deep,” Sharma said on social media platform X, adding that some of her patients had developed steroid-induced changes after using such products. She said several of the patients she had seen were from border states, including Rajasthan, where such products were reportedly purchased from local fancy shops.

Sharma said the composition listed on the packaging may not always reveal what is actually causing the skin damage. “Steroid-induced changes are a giveaway,” she said.

She also shared the case of a patient who had been using one such cream and developed what she described as a “steroid face”, with the skin now slowly recovering after the product was stopped.