Near a dargah in Bajana, Junaid curved his jeep onto a bumpy path that ran next to a village. Tribeswomen emerging from Rann were walking barefoot and balancing enormous stacks of wood on their heads. Some stopped to eye the vehicle from a dune beside the path. Beneath them were tiny stacks of flat stones, which Junaid said were graves of sweepers. “Nobody touches a sweeper here and their bodies are buried outside the village,” Junaid added. It seemed Junaid had told this to tourists many times before. His face was impassive as he spoke. Had he got bored telling this time and again to every tourist?
“Bored? Never,” he smiled, but his face turned hard. “I like the birds and I like driving here. It’s an excellent highway,” he said, as we rattled noisily over the trail.
Thick bushes lined up the path and the sky was without a cloud. There was no sign of life, no other sound.
When we arrived at Bajana creek, it was packed with birds. A cacophony of birdsongs filled the air and a sharp smell of salt was emanating from the soil. We travelled further into the desert. It felt like a being in a different world. Past a rusty forest office signboard, which had photos of a lion, tiger and a leopard – animals that had no business being here – there was a vast, empty expanse. Junaid stopped the car. From horizon to horizon, there was nothing. Miles of sand, an odd shrub somewhere, and nothing else. It strangely felt claustrophobic. I was not prepared for this. As I stood gaping at the desolate landscape, Junaid asked me if I could spot an oasis. There was a mirage, indeed, and at a faraway distance, a herd of wild asses were crossing the desert.
Seeing a wild ass isn’t considered as exciting as sighting a tiger. There is no mystery about them. They are light brown, with muscular hind legs, and travel in small herds. At the hint of a threat, real or imagined, they simply take off. “It’s illegal to chase them, and don’t even try. They can touch 80km an hour,” Junaid said. A more informed guide later revised this to around 70.
ABOUT THE LITTLE RANN
The largest sanctuary in India and a Ramsar Wetlands Site, the Little Rann is spread over 4,953sq km in the five districts of Surendranagar, Banaskantha, Patan, Kutch and Rajkot. The two main entry points are Dasada and Jinjhwada. One safari route is to Bajana creek (accessible from Bajana), where birds arrive during winter. The other route is to the salt hills of Jinjhwada, 20km northwest of Dasada village.
The Rann is a flat, white, cracked and utterly barren land in the winter. There are 364 hills, called bets, which rise across the Rann, and become islands in the monsoon, providing food and shelter to animals. In the rains, the Rann is filled with water as a result of reverse flow of seawater during the rains, and only the bets stay above the water level. The largest of the bets is Pung Bet, covering 84sq km. The tallest is Mardak Bet, 80km north of Bajana. Dasada village, where Rann Riders Resort is based, is one of the two entry points.
The Little Rann Sanctuary was established in 1973. At the time, the population of the wild ass was rapidly declining and conservation efforts were undertaken immediately. From 362 in 1963, their number rose to 720 in 1976. In 1989, huge herds of wild asses started roaming the Rann and since then, their numbers have been steadily on the rise. The Little Rann is staffed by less than 20 officers and constables. Besides protecting the herds of wild ass, they patrol the outer edges of the sensitive sanctuary.
Both guides and officials are hesitant to travel too far into the Little Rann except on established tracks. This is because the parched topsoil is deceptive, and not just near watery areas. This could cause you to sink into the soft mud. All travel has to be done in jeeps or trucks, the only vehicles that can navigate the terrain. Rann Riders provides jeeps, if asked in advance. It is imperative that you register your entry into the Rann at the Forest Office at the park’s entrance at Bajana, which has a Range Office. Or else, register with the forest guard at Jinjhwada. Insist for a receipt of entry as proof that you have entered the park lawfully. In winter, you’ll need warm clothing, a torch, medicines and plenty of water. Don’t forget to carry binoculars.
Tip It is recommended that you visit the Rann with at least one person who knows the area and understands the local language
Entry Indians ₹400–500 for 1–6 pax per vehicle; Foreigners ₹2,400–3,000 (includes park entry, vehicle and guide fee) Timings Sunrise–sunset Camera Indians ₹200; Foreigners ₹1,200
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
The Little Rann is a vast, silent desert. Apart from the wild ass, other animals found here include wild boar, jungle cat, desert cat, blackbuck, desert fox, jackal, chinkara and nilgai.
Birdwatching at Bajana Creek
After the rains, birds flock to the Bajana creek and the neighbouring Nawa Talaab. Common cranes, greater and lesser flamingoes, several species of ducks and storks can be found at the creek or close to it. Be careful of the terrain, especially near water bodies as the mud is soft and one could get stuck in it easily.
The best time for birdwatching is early in the morning and late afternoon. Sunsets are great for photography. Contact Rann Riders to arrange a safari. A jeep along with a guide costs ₹3,000 for three hours (7.00–10.00am, 3.00–6.00pm).
Camel Safari
Tour operators in the area arrange camel safaris on request, as part of their holiday package or even for day visitors. Winter is the best time for it. One can only plan a day trip to Rann as overnight halts are not allowed.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Rann Riders (Tel: 02757-280257, Cell: 09925236014; Tariff: ₹7,000–8,000), located barely 1km before Dasada village, is a popular choice. Desert Coursers (Tel: 241333/ 35, Cell: 09426372113; Tariff: ₹2,000 per person), east of NH10, has small Kooba huts. The tariff includes food and a safari. Eco Tour Camp (Cell: 09825548090; Tariff: ₹2,000–4,000, with meals) near Sumera Lake also offers Kooba huts and tents. Another option is Bhavna Resort (Cell: 09427216059; Tariff: ₹4,400, with meals and safari) on Patadi-Dasada road, which has all modern facilities. The hygiene in some dhabas can be dodgy.
FAST FACTS
When to go The park is open all year; October–March is the best time to visit
Best sightings November–February, when it is cooler and migratory birds arrive in the thousands
Go there for Wild ass, migratory birds, desert birds
Wildlife/ Forest Dept Office
Sanctuary Game Warden, Bajana, Patdi Surendranagar Tel: 02757-226281
STD code 02757
GETTING THERE
Air Nearest airport: SVP International Airport, Ahmedabad (103km/ 2hrs from Dasada). Taxi fare to Dasada village is around ₹3,000
Rail Nearest railhead: Viramgam (42km/ 1hr from Dasada). Autorickshaw fare to Dasada is around ₹400. If you intend to stay at either of the resorts there, they will arrange a free pick-up
Road The road to Dasada is smooth and bumpy in parts, though for the most part, it is comfortable. There is no road or set path after a certain point within the sanctuary, but is a flat path