Looking Within – Famous Mountaineering Options in India

The commercialization of 8000m peaks, and the rush of amateurs on them, has put off many serious climbers. Many Indian mountaineers are now looking at climbing or trekking options in India.

Nanda Devi in Uttarakhand, immortalized by the writer Bill Aitken in his book ‘The Nanda Devi Affair’, is known for its regal shape and the challenge it offers climbers. The second-highest mountain in India is famous for having two summits, with the main summit measuring 7,816 metres and Nanda Devi East at 7,434 metres. It is also enclosed by several glaciers that are critical sources of water in the surrounding regions. Eric Shipton and HW Tilman are known to be its first climbers when they accomplished this feat in 1936.

Kanchenjunga is another renowned mountaineering attraction, located on the Nepal border and Sikkim. It is the third-highest mountain in the world after Mount Everest and K2. Like Nanda Devi, it has multiple summits, five to be precise, and is often referred to as the “Five Treasures of Snow”. These peaks comprise Kanchenjunga Main, followed by Kanchenjunga Central, Kanchenjunga South, Kanchenjunga West, and Kangbachen. Kanchenjunga also holds great cultural significance to the Sikkimese population. The mountain is considered sacred due to its association with local legends and myths. The Northeast Ridge, West Ridge and Yalung Kang Face are known to be the toughest routes to climb.

Climbers also frequent the Stok Kangri Mountain in the Ladakh region of North India, which is 3,610 metres tall. Trekkers often see it as a practice point for climbing other, more popular peaks, referring to it as a “trekking point” due to its relatively non-technical nature. However, underestimating it can prove costly, as acclimatising to the local conditions is essential for survival. The environment of the mountain is completely opposite during the winter months, and climbing becomes technical due to the formation of snow. Unfit trekkers can repeatedly find themselves in an exhausted state. The first official trek of Stok Kangri was accomplished a couple of decades ago by a British team led by Ross Cooper.

Seasoned trekkers also fancy climbing Friendship Peak, which is located in the Kullu region of Himachal Pradesh. It is situated at 5,289 metres, offering stunning views of the Himalayan peaks in Pir Panjal. The snow-capped mountains and glaciers add to the overall experience. Similar to Stok Kangri, it has a non-technical route with rocky slopes and glacier crossings. And although one does not need to know the basics of trekking, it is advisable to make oneself known to local conditions for the challenges associated with high-altitude trekking. Friendship Peak is also a makeshift training ground for aspiring trekkers, who wish to prepare themselves for high-altitude environments.

When it comes to trekking, individuals often prefer challenging routes, and that is what Mount Kamet in Uttarakhand offers. The second-highest mountain in the region spans several countries apart from India, including Bhutan, Nepal and Tibet. It is renowned for being one of the most technically challenging routes in the Indian Himalayas, requiring multiple days of trekking through dense forest and rough terrain. The higher altitudes come with their own set of tribulations. Mountaineers need to possess advanced techniques such as ice climbing and rock climbing.

Inspiration for mountaineering and trekking can be drawn from many Indian climbing luminaries, such as Bachendri Pal. The first Indian woman to climb Everest (1984) had mountaineering aspirations from a tender age, and as a 12-year-old, she scaled a 13,123 feet high peak. She later enrolled in the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. After climbing Everest, she famously said, “You have to give up the attitude of giving up to survive and fight in life, be it climbing a mountain or fighting for own sense of security.’’

Then there was Arunima Sinha from Uttar Pradesh, who became the first amputee from the country to scale Mount Everest.

“If anyone wants to do something different from the norm, they've got to be crazy, right? So, I would say there is a lot of craziness in what I do,” said Sinha, who lost her left leg in a train accident. “But this craziness is what has brought me all the way here. It has made me who I am today.”