“Have this namkeen chai”, said my guide’s mother during my Spiti trek. “It will increase your appetite, give you the energy to walk and keep your back strong till you die.” Namkeen chai is a concoction of tea leaves, barley and large amounts of freshly churned butter and some salt. Back home in the highrises of Mumbai, butter and salt are blamed for everything that’s wrong in one’s life—obesity and blood pressure to heart disease.