Despite the funky smells wafting through the air, the filth around the river, the sangam in Allahabad where the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythic Saraswati meet is one of those rare places—there’s something in the air that enchants you. Having grown up in this charismatic city, devouring the tangy chats while the cool breeze of the sangam blows into your face was a ritual almost every other evening. This place has made me appreciate and enjoy the little joys of life. The fun-loving people, the heritage and the food is what makes Allahabad such an alluring city.

Allahabad being a historically and culturally rich city is also known for its quirky eateries. From chats to the sheer variety of kebabs, this city is a foodie’s paradise. A boat-ride to the sangam to see the breathtaking sunrise is something that one shouldn’t miss at any cost. Once that’s done, go to Netram for a typical UP breakfast. The piping hot kachoris with aloo dum and tangy tomato chutney will make your taste buds crave more. Netram ki kachoriya is beyond compare.


Civil Lines is the main market area of Allahabad and a drive around the All Saint’s Cathedral is mandatory. Growing up within the confines of the city, a drive to the cathedral was considered going on a long drive. It’s one of the buildings constructed by the British in 1871 which helped revive Gothic architecture in the country. Once you’re done with your round, head to Chunni Lal Restaurant for the best choley bhaturey on the planet. I can vouch for it. The piquant flavour of the choley topped with finely chopped onions and coriander paired with the crisp bhaturey will keep bringing you back for more.


Every time my mother and I would go out shopping to Civil Lines, we would go to this tiny churmura stall near Softy Corner opposite the Subhash Chauraha. It was an unspoken rule to first eat some churmura and then do window shopping around the stalls. The churmura had just the right amount of the various ingredients and struck the perfect balance between the spicy, the tangy and the crisp rice puffs and roasted chickpeas. And when you discover that you’ve eaten too much, try Lallu Panwaala’s masala cold drink to make room for more food.


Allahabad is famous for its chat and one of the best places to go is Shiv Chat Bhandar in Bairana. It’s a small roadside chat stall that’s always over-crowded, thanks to its mouth-watering aloo tikki, paani puri and dahi bhalla. Have some, and you’ll forget the crowds and Allahabad’s crazy traffic. It is best to go there and have it fresh rather than getting it packed for home. It’s best enjoyed when piping hot.


End your day with some delicious local dessert. Be it Radhe ki thandi fruit cream, Dehati ke rasgulley or Raja Ram ki rabri and kulfi, Allahabad’s dessert is unmatched. Allahabad is a small city compared to Delhi or Mumbai, but it never fails to charm. At the heart of that charm is the amazing food, ensuring that people keep coming back again and again for a mouth-watering experience.