Persian customs, introduced during the reigns of the Mughals, Qutub Shahis and Nizams, blended seamlessly with the region’s predominantly south Indian culture and traditions to give rise to Telangana’s rich array of arts and crafts. Although the gorgeous Pochampally saris might be the most famous handicraft emerging from the state, others such as delicate silver filigree work and Pembarti sheet metal work to lesser-known arts such as durrie weaving and Nirmal paintings will leave visitors spoilt for choice.
Pochampally
The Pochampally sari originates in the Nalgonda District of Telangana. This sari derives its name from Bhoodan Pochampally (see p171), a cluster of around 80 villages where weaving has been the traditional means of livelihood for over a century. The uniqueness of the Pochampally sari lies in the Ikkat techniques employed by weavers to transfer intricate geometric patterns to weft and warp threads, which are then woven together. The fabrics used are silk and cotton as well as a blend of silk and cotton known as sico. Increasingly natural dyes are being used on these saris. It is interesting to note that Air India air hostesses wear silk Pochampally saris that were especially designed as their uniform. Since Ikkat weaving is a heritage craft, it has been given Geographical Indication status.
Gadwal Weaves
The small town of Gadwal (see p196), which is around 150km from Hyderabad, has much to boast about when it comes to exquisite handlooms. Weavers here enjoyed the patronage of the royal family of Gadwal and hence developed their own designs, which were heavily influenced by the stone and wood carving traditions the area was famous for. These vibrant saris are a combination of silk and cotton and are known for the durability of the colours used in the yarn. The body of the sari is usually cotton with the border and pallu being silk. Popular motifs include the doubleheaded eagle and Youli, the lion. Amazingly enough a few types of refined Gadwal saris can be folded down to the size of a matchbox.
Durries and Carpets
Warangal District is home to hundreds of artisans who are involved in the durrie (rug) or carpet-making industry, which has gained prominence over the last few years. Initially the durrie was the poor cousin of the carpet – lacking the vibrancy and appeal of the latter. But in recent years durrie weavers have begun to understand the importance of changing their designs and colours in order to adapt their products to suit modern aesthetics. Decorative durries with tie and dye, and floral designs are usually in demand. However, plain durries with Kalamkari block prints are also gaining popularity.
Pembarti Metal Craft
This famous sheet metal art flourished during the reign of the Kakatiya dynasty, when it was used extensively to decorate chariots and temples. However, the decline of the Kakatiyas led to this metal art losing significance and fading into virtual anonymity. Fortunately it was revived when the Nizams (see p27) came to power and since then has enjoyed worldwide recognition.
The tiny village of Pembarti (see p310), which is around 80km from Hyderabad, in Warangal District, is home to this famous brassware tradition. Many traditional families of artisans have converted their homes into workshops and sell their pieces directly from here. Some of the more popular pieces of sheet metal craft include the big vessel known as gangalam, the Kakatiya Kirti toranam, an arch of victory which is symbolic to the Kakatiya dynasty’s architectural style and now finds place in the official state emblem of Telangana and the small but exquisitely decorated Nandi.
Bidri
Named after Bidar – a town in Karnataka – which was once part of the erstwhile princely state of Hyderabad, this beautiful metal craft involves engraving silver on Gunmetal, an alloy of Copper and Zinc. Introduced to India by Iranian migrants, Bidri art has several stages ranging from casting and engraving to inlaying and oxidizing. Objects made using this art have black surfaces due to the zinc present in them, which makes the silver inlay work stand out. Jewellery boxes, vases and hookah pots are some of the items made using this metal craft.
Silver Filigree
A delicate and beautiful metal art, silver filigree was created by silversmiths in Karimnagar in the 19th century. It involves twisting silver wires to create items with a silver net-like appearance. The artisans make every article by hand and use only the highest quality of silver that is available. Popular motifs include flowers, birds, leaves and other nature-related designs. This work is mainly used to make jewellery.
Dokra Metal Crafts
This charming metal craft has now become popular around the world thanks to the simple, oneof- a-kind designs produced by artisans residing in the Adilabad District. Made completely by hand, each product is unique since no mould is used twice. Brass scrap is the most common metal used to create Dokra products, which also have a core of clay within the metal casting. Motifs are taken from folk traditions and nature – stags, elephants and various other tribal and religious symbols find their way into these castings.
Cheriyal Scroll Paintings
Originating in the village of Cheriyal in Warangal District, these vivid paintings, executed on canvas made from Khadi, depict themes and stories from ancient Indian literature and mythology as well as folk traditions. Artists paint directly onto the prepared canvas, which is an indication of their experience and quality of work. The colours they use are obtained from natural sources. Red is usually the dominant background colour and the narrative is brought to life using scenes from every day rural life in the state. These artists also make masks from wood, saw dust and tamarind paste and sometimes even coconut shells. Cheriyal Scroll Paintings were given Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2007.
Nirmal Paintings
Going back at least 600 years, Nirmal Paintings get their name from the town they’re produced in—Nirmal town in Adilabad District is well known for its array of handcrafted traditions. The artists who practice this art are called Naqash. The colours used in these paintings are obtained from minerals, gum and herbs. The familiar golden hue in Nirmal art is a result of a herbal extract, which imparts a golden sheen. Besides paintings, Nirmal artists also create bowls, boxes, lacquered furniture and trays.
Batik
The district of Medak is home to this ancient art, which dates back 2,000 years. The process of using wax to create intricate designs on cloth is quite demanding. A cloth is first washed, soaked and then beaten with a mallet. This is followed by a pattern being drawn on it with pencil and then being redrawn using hot wax, which forms the dye-resist area. Once the cloth dries, the wax is removed by scraping it off. The process is repeated several times to get the desired number of colours. The finished product is only as good as the quality of waxes used in the creation process.