Find a platform near a large crowd anywhere in Telangana and yell out ‘Yadagiri’; you’ll be surprised to see the number of heads that turn to that name. Yadagirigutta’s Laxmi Narasimha Swamy is indubitably the most popular God in the state. So popular that the Government of India’s regional channel in Telangana is called Doordarshan Yadagiri. In a state where every second temple is dedicated to Lord Narasimha, why this particular deity commands such reverence, you ask? It’s because the deity here is supposedly very powerful – he cures diseases, works miracles and fulfills people’s wishes.
Not very far away from Hyderabad, this temple town, situated atop a small hillock, is highly visited by the residents of the city and the surrounding areas. It doesn’t matter what time of the day or year, devotees queue up here to get a darshana of the deity. For most religious Hyderabadis, Yadagirigutta is a prime destination for a day’s picnic, a long drive or even a holiday. Besides, there are many tourist attractions around the temple, such as Kolanupaka and Bhongiri Fort, making it a great option for a short weekend trip from the city. Yadagirigutta is also called ‘Rushi Aradhna Kshetra’ or the place of worship for saints. Wandering ascetics have been coming here for ages to meditate, seek enlightenment and soak in the existence of the supreme power, which is very palpable in this town.
Orientation
Like any other temple town, getting around Yadagirigutta is pretty simple. The entire town is developed in the direction of the temple and one single road, surrounded by various guesthouses and souvenir shops, leads to the hillock atop which the temple is situated. From the foot of this hillock, a road diverts into the brief ghat section through which the temple can be accessed. Auto-rickshaws can be hired inside the town for a drive up the hill. If you wish to take your car, the entry ticket is ₹20. Several hotels including the Haritha Resort by Telangana Tourism Development Corporation are along the ghat road. And once you’ve reached the last post, you need to walk a short distance, higher up, to reach the temple.
Alternately, there is also an entry for the staircase, which leads to the temple. The shrine is approximately 300ft above ground level and the climb up there can be quite strenuous. It takes around two hours to reach the temple on foot, but the view of the surrounding boulders and the town is worth the effort; the truly devout prefer to take this route instead of the road.
Things to See & Do
Although a small temple town, Yadagirigutta and its surrounding areas offer quite a few attractions to keep one busy. You could visit the temple and its surrounding shrines, the historical town of Kolanupaka or the Bhongiri Fort.
Laxmi Narasimha Swamy Temple
The temple, actually a cave on the summit of a hill, is surmounted by a shikhara over the garbha griha. At night, the glow of the golden Sudarshana Chakra atop the shikhara can be seen from afar. The chakra, considered to possess mystical power and value, at times turns on its own; it is said that no human hand is capable of moving it. In the earlier days, the chakra was said to turn in the direction from which the pilgrims came, thereby guiding them towards the temple.
Legend has it that a long time ago, Sri Yada Maharishi had performed great penance for Lord Narasimha Swamy in a cave on the hill where Yadagirigutta currently stands. Pleased with his persistence and unfailing devotion, the Lord appeared before the sage in five different forms – Sri Jwala Narasimha, Sri Yogananda Narasimha, Sri Ugra Narasimha, Sri Gandaberunda Narasimha and Sri Laksmi Narasimha. All these five forms (roopas) are presently worshipped within the temple and that spot is known as Panchanarasimha Kshetram.
The lord is believed to have initially appeared before the sage as Jwala Narasimha, that is, lord as a flame. As the sage was unable to bear the intensity of this manifestation, the lord subsequently changed over to a more peaceful form, Yoga Narasimha, that is the lord in a yogic padmasana (lotus posture). But the Maharishi was still dissatisfied as he desired to see the lord with his consort. To appease his aficionado, Lord Narasimha appeared with Goddess Laxmi on his lap. This finally satisfied the sage and it is in this avatar (Laxmi Narasimha Swamy) in which he is worshipped here, the divine hand adorned with a diamond-studded golden glove raised in the Abhaya Dana Mudra, signifying fearlessness and strength.
On entering the cave, the low arch almost grazes your head requiring you to bow before the lord. As you close your eyes and remain still for a moment, you can almost feel his hand showering you with divine blessings. The temple organises special darshana for ₹50 and ₹150.
Next to the main shrine is the Shivalayam dedicated to Lord Shiva. There is also the beautiful Addala Mandapam here, which is the hall of mirrors, built to appease the gods. On the opposite side of the main shrine, there is an area dedicated for aartis and special occasions, such as Deepotsava Mandapam. Be watchful of the monkeys and the people begging for alms here.
There is a counter selling prasadam on the left side of the temple. The laddoo sold here is for ₹10 and the pulihore (lemon rice) is for ₹15.
Pathagutta
This is also the residence of Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy. The temple located at the end of a rough gravel path lies at the foot of Yadagirigutta. It is called the ‘Old Temple’ whereas the temple at the top of the hill is popularly referred to as the ‘New Temple’. Here the deity is in the form of stone, a rough carving on a huge rock. In recent years, the temple has been renovated. There is also a sacred pond – Akash Ganga Teertham, which is said to possess medicinal properties. It is located on a small hill overlooking the temple.
Kunda Satanarayana Kaladhamam
On your way to the Laxmi Narasimha Swamy temple in Yadagirigutta, a humungous Shiva linga on your right will catch your attention. The Surendrapuri temple complex houses a beautiful mythological museum called Kunda Satyanarayana Kaladhamam. The museum has large statues and model structures of most Hindu gods and famous temples from around India such as Gangotri, Kashi, Kedarnath, Badrinath and Amarnath. There are also installations modelled around scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, as well as a diorama showing the Hindu concept of sapta loka (seven worlds) – Bramha loka, Vishnu loka, Shiva loka, Naga loka, Indra loka, Yama loka and Pathala loka. Earlier, this complex used to be known for its Panchamukha Hanuman Temple which, the museum claims, has one of the tallest idols of Hanuman in the country.
Entry Adults ₹300; Children ₹250 Timings 8am–5pm
Where to Stay
Telangana Tourism’s Haritha Hotel (Tel: 08685-237217, Cell: 098-48823074; Tariff: ₹1,000–2,100), located on a hilltop a little before entering the town, scores the most. The breathtaking sweep of the plains seen from here, especially at dawn, when nascent sunrays flood the landscape with an ethereal glow, is simply majestic. There are 32 AC and non-AC rooms, a large dorm and a restaurant with good south Indian fare.
Being a place of pilgrimage, there are the customary choultries huddled along a narrow, winding road near the temple. The Sree Lakshmi Narasimha Swami Vaari Devasthanam Guest House (Tel: 236623/52, 236400, 236645; Tariff: ₹1,000–2,100), run by the Devasthanam Board, has rooms uphill near the temple as well as down the hill.
Where to Eat
Prasadam at the Devasthanam is sold at a nominal price. Meals are arranged on order. Free meals are available for around 500 people. The restaurant at Haritha Hotel offers good views and buffet as well as a la carte meals and snacks. Mostly it is Hyderabadi cuisine and it is open from 7am–10.30pm. Non-guests are also welcome. Hotel Sankalp on Warangal-Hyderabad Road, offering multi-cuisine fare, is another good option. The eating joints lining the route to the temple sell the usual idlis and vadas for breakfast and standard Telangana meals during the day.
AROUND YADAGIRIGUTTA
Bhongiri Fort (14km)
A little after you cross the city limits of Hyderabad, a monolithic rock standing amidst an otherwise vast, brown landscape presents itself in front of you. When you get closer, the fort constructed on top of it is clearly visible. The Bhongiri Fort (also known as Bhongir), built by Thribuvanamalla Vikramaditya VI of the Western Chalukya dynasty in 10th century CE, is situated a little before the temple town of Yadagirigutta, off the NH 163. The fort saw its golden days during the Kakatiya period under Rani Rudrama Devi and Prataparudra. Today, it is a protected monument under the list of the State Archaeology Department. The fort is considered the most difficult to scale in Telangana – a trip here satisfies the needs of adventure as well as history and nature enthusiasts.
The fort was initially called Thribuvanagiri after the king who commissioned it. Over the centuries, the name of the fort became Bhuvanagiri and subsequently Bhongiri. The town, Bhuvanagiri, which lies at the foot, derived its name from the ancient structure. The entry points to the fort are through this town. Spreading across an area of 50 acres and situated at a height of 500ft above ground level, the fort has an unusual egg-shape, making the process of scaling it an extremely exhausting task. However, once you’ve reached the top, you’re immediately rewarded with a panoramic view of the entire region. Around the fort, there is a moat, which has an underground chamber. Legend has it that the chamber is connected to the Golconda Fort, about 50km away, by a secret tunnel. Bhongiri has an interesting collection of armory, stables and trap doors, among other artefacts. There is also a temple dedicated to Hanuman and several ponds in the fort.
Entry ₹3 Timings 10am–5pm
Hotel Vivera (Cell: 09505848429; Tariff: ₹1,500-2,450) on the Bypass Road is a good option to stay nearby. Amenities include 11 rooms and one suite. Their multi-cuisine restaurant offers south Indian and Punjabi food. They also have another restaurant opposite SLNS Degree College. Country Club (Cell: 09866288169, 09908071616; Tariff: ₹2,500), on the Main Road, offers 12 rooms along with a restaurant, swimming pool and games. Yadadri Lodge (Cell: 09949963970, 09948392573; Tariff: ₹1,000-1,500) has 25 rooms with attached baths. Home-cooked meals are served here.
Kolanupaka (20km)
This town, the second capital of the Kalyani Chalukyas during the 11th century, boasts of a 2,000-year-old temple adorned with beautiful images of the Jain tirthankaras, besides a 5-foot-high statue of Lord Mahavira carved out of emerald, the only one of its kind in the world.
The main deity over here is Adeshwar Bhagwan. However the temple is better known for its Mahavir statue. The temple also holds a marble Gomukha Yaksha riding an elephant. There is another statue depicting King Shreyans Kumar breaking Adeshwar Bhagwan’s fast. Hyderabad’s Jain community visits this temple in droves on weekends. On a daily basis, approximately 150–200 people come to this temple. The temple is the most crowded during Diwali, when 500 people assemble here.
Telangana, though rich in Buddhist heritage, was never considered to be a stronghold of Jainism and hence a prominent Jain temple at Kolanupaka, in the midst of a Vaishnava stronghold, appears as quite a surprise. The temple was renovated in the recent past by deploying over 150 artisans from the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan. The structure has beautiful images of the Jain tirthankaras inscribed on its walls. There are horse cart rides available around this temple. The carts charge ₹50 to take you inside the village of Kolanupaka where there is a famous temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and a museum that has remains from the Kalyani Chalukya era.
Location From the base of Yadagirigutta, a fairly good but desolate road (hence should be attempted only during daylight hours) runs to the town of Aler. After reaching Aler, take a right turn, which will end in the railway tracks. Cross them and continue on the temple road to the town of Kolanupaka.
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FAST FACTS |
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When to go All year round, but October to March is the most comfortable time for travel |
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Tourist Office |
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Central Reservations Office |
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Department of Tourism Telengana Tourism NSF Shakar Bhawan Opp Police Control Room Basheerbagh Hyderabad Tel: 040-2980140, 66745986 Cell: 09848540371 Fax: 23298455 STD code 08685 |
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GETTING THERE |
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Air Nearest airport: Hyderabad (60km/ 1.5hrs) is served by both domestic and international flights. State transport department taxi charges ₹1,800/ 80km |
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Rail Nearest railhead: Raigir Railway Station (6km/ 20mins) is served by the Krishna Express. Autos are available for Yadagirigutta just outside the station |
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Road From the Mahatma Gandhi Bus Stand (Imlibun), head for Uppal Crossroad to take NH 202, the Warangal Road, past Uppal Nallah cheruvu to exit Hyderabad. Continue down NH 202 to the railhead of Raigir via Bibinagar Bypass and Bhongir. At Raigir take a left for Yadagirigutta 6km away |
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Bus Frequent bus services are also available from Hyderabad’s Mahatma Gandhi Bus Stand |
The Doctor God
Lord Narasimha at Yadagirigutta is a multifaceted God. At times he assumes the role of a “doctor” and appears to his devotees (suffering from chronic diseases and terminal illnesses) in their dreams, suggesting the names of medicines to be administered and assures them speedy recovery. Furthermore he is also known to heal those trapped under the influence of bad planets and spell of evil forces like black magic and witchcraft.
Many sick persons testify to having had vivid dreams in which they saw visions of the lord blessing them and suggesting cures, administration of which have made them well once again. Though the medical fraternity is divided regarding the validity of such claims, the fact is that in such matters of faith, the heart overrules the mind and personal belief scores over science or logic.
Of course these divine cures are not exactly free, for though the Doctor God does not charge any fee, it is expected that, on getting well, the ‘cured’ person will undertake a mandala or 40-day pradakshina (circumambulation, or walking around the sanctum sanctorum of the temple in clockwise direction) in honour of “Vaidya Narasimha.”