Kasargod seems like a metaphor for peace, with its quiet beauty, sea-kissed forts, wind-caressed palms as well as embracing beaches. This mosaic of calm lagoons and patches of red earth, makes for a truly colourful landscape. Emerald green rice fields add to the colour. Not too long ago, great forts towered above Kasargod, standing sentinel over the town at the edge of the Arabian Sea. Now dilapidated, they bear silent testimony to official neglect. The plunder of their unique, rectangular laterite stones have left behind only ruins. Forts like Bekal, Chandragiri, Hosdurg, Kumbala, Panayal, Kundamkuzhi and Bandaduka which appear to have been built one stone at a time, are now falling apart in much the same way.
ORIENTATION
Kasargod, the district headquarters, is the access point for Bekal. Located in the extreme north of Kerala this town has been equally influenced culturally by Karnataka. Kasargod lies at the heart of the Tulu speaking region, Tulunadu, spread over both Kerala and Karnataka. The region is known for the traditional art form, Bhootha Kola, a local performance that is part of an ancient ritual that honours the gods. The artist, believed to be empowered by spirits, paints his face bright yellow, and combines elements of music, drama and energy in one colourful spectacle.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Apart from the ruins of magnificent forts, the leitmotif of Bekal, there are several religious sites worth visiting in Kasargod. These shrines are also storehouses of history and culture, preserved amid a sea of modern concrete constructions.
Bekal Fort
The Bekal Fort is perhaps best known as the lilting, grey backdrop in Mani Ratnam’s movie, Bombay. The fort stands alone and isolated, and slightly taller than the other forts in the town – an imposing structure. A large number of movies have been shot on its ramparts, promoting tourism inadvertently. Bekal’s history, of course, precedes cinematography by centuries. Ruled by the Mahodayapuram Perumals till the 12th century CE, it was fortified in the mid-16th century by the Kolathunadu and Keladi Nayaks. It was Tipu Sultan who turned the fort into an important military base, before losing it to the East India Company.
The history of the fort is also embellished by stories of secret passageways hidden within the fort, for armies to enter or regress, and for royal lovers needing refuge. The tall, thick walls of the fort, though covered with moss today, once kept marauders at bay. They remain standing faithfully, their past glory witnessed by the Arabian Sea surging beyond the walls. Around the fort, on golden grassy knolls, sit the Magazine, the Observation Tower and a score of intriguing peepholes which give glimpses of picturesque sights. In addition to this, the ancient Anjaneya Temple, a newly renovated mosque, a sea bastion and underground passages invite the curious traveller.
Inside Bekal Fort, a once popular guesthouse for travellers lies in disuse. The Bekal Resorts Development Corporation (BRDC) and Public Works Departments (PWD) have not been able to do much in the fort. More recently, the ASI has stepped in, building pathways for visitors along the walls of the ancient fort and restoring some of the existing tunnels.
Location Bekal Fort Road Entry Indians ₹ 5; Foreigners ₹ 100 Timings 8:00am–5:30pm Tel 04672236580
Bekal Fort Beach
On the other side of the imposing fort lies a shallow beach, occupied largely by shells of all sizes and vast colonies of scurrying crabs. Visitors are advised to bring their own food and drink. The single little petti kada, or tea stall, stocks only the most basic refreshments. The Bekal Hole Aqua Park is a small pier with pedal boats and water cycles on offer.
Kasargod Forts
The 17th century Chandragiri Fort, located about 4km from Bekal, survives now as a single wall, broken in places, and a pile of rubble. Covered with wild grass, it changes colours with seasons, subject to the ravages of time and weather. It was built by Sivappa Naik. Attempts have been made to restore the fort, some of which are still underway. Despite its dilapidated condition, the pinnacle of the steep laterite steps offers a beautiful view of dense palm groves to one side, the serene Chandragiri to the other, and the Arabian Sea beyond. Inside the fort is a watchtower, which offers a superb view of the confluence of the Chandragiri river with the ocean.
The ruins of Panayal Fort are represented only by a few stones that have survived in a contemporary residential area. Hosdurg Fort, 12km south of Bekal, is part of the chain of forts built by the Ikkeri Nayaks. It is now only a huddle of stones and half a rampart, and sadly not worth a visit. But Hosdurg Beach, a long strip of tawny sands fringed by casuarina groves, is a beautiful, peaceful space.
Kappil Beach
A ten-minute drive away from Bekal is the secluded Kappil Beach, partially overrun by thick green creepers with mauve flowers. There are also shallow groves of casuarina trees, offering shelter to the rare traveller. Kodi Cliff to one side of the beach is worth the relatively less arduous climb for a view of the sea.
Malik Dinar Mosque, Kasargod
Malik Ibn Dinar, the son of a slave and an ardent disciple of Prophet Mohammad, is believed to have been the first person to propagate Islam in Kerala. This mosque in Kasargod’s Thalangara area is said to have been founded by him, and is also his final resting place. Overlooking a green swathe of land, shaded by the swaying branches of a number of trees, this mosque has magnificent wooden beams as well as thick, shining columns. Every year, the Urs festival, commemorating the arrival of Ibn Dinar in Kasargod, attracts pilgrims from all over India.
Twin Ashrams of Kasargod
The Nityanandashram, close to Hosdurg Fort, is a meditation centre founded by Swami Nityananda. The ashram itself is a series of 45 caves cut into the side of a hillock, a major tourist attraction. The temple follows the architectural style of the Somnath Temple in Gujarat.
There is also a life-sized statue of Swami Nityananda here in the meditation centre. Anandashram is another famous ashram in the region, founded by Vaishnava saint Swami Ramdas, 4km from Kanhangad. It is a peaceful space, nestled within mango and coconut groves.
Nileshwaram
Nileswaram, once the cultural centre of Kasargod District, lies about 12km south of Bekal on NH17. The town is home to a clutch of decrepit buildings and old Nileswaram palaces. The main Nileswaram Palace has been converted into the Folklore Centre of the Archaeology Department. For those who imagine palaces to be grand structures, this sprawl of red-tiled houses could come as a bit of an anticlimax. However, to the discerning eye, the solid teak roof beams, the magnificent wooden pillars, the shining red stone floors and the nalukettus, all paint a poignant picture. The myriad shrines dotted across Nileswaram, all lit up in the evening, make for a moving sight.
Main Palace Timings 9:00am–7:00pm
Valiyaparamba
South of Nileswaram lie the scenic Valiyaparamba backwaters, dotted with numerous little islands, narrow strips of beaches and densely packed groves of palm and arecanut, fed by four swiftly flowing rivers. It is possible to spend a whole day and even stay overnight here, exploring the backwaters by houseboat. The BRDC runs a couple of houseboats on the Tejaswini river, from Kottapuram in Nileswaram to Kannur, along the Valiyaparamba Backwaters. En route past the nine islands, visitors can take in the brilliant verdant of the surroundings and Chinese fishing nets. Houseboats afford the tourist the possibilities of swimming, lazing about, staying through the night or even longer, among other things. These tours are also a lot more affordable than the ones in Alleppey and Kottayam. Tours can be booked for anything from two to 24 hours, or be customised as per the visitor’s requirements.
SHOPPING
Kasargod is best known for beautiful saris manufactured by the handloom co-operative society and marketed by the Kerala State Handloom Development Corporation, Hanveev. The Hanveev Showroom is located near the Old Bus Stand in Kasargod. It is also possible to visit the weavers at Udayagiri on Madhur Road on request. These saris can be traditional cotton weaves, cotton-silk blends or pure silk. Rajadhani Cane Furniture makes cane furniture like the hanging jhoola and bamboo rocking chairs. Decorated arecanut leaf caps are usually a hit with the children. Roadside shops also sell compactly woven baskets and payas (mats). All typical munchies – banana chips, sweet and salted jackfruit chips and long golden plantains (nendrapazham) – are sold here.
WHERE TO STAY
Kasargod District is just beginning to boast of some exceptional hotels, and the resorts of the Bekal Resorts Development Corporation are yet to come. Surrounded by the backwaters and the sea, high-end options here include Vivanta by Taj (Tel: 0467-6616612; Tariff: ₹ 14,000–28,000) on Kappil Beach is a charming property with modern spacious rooms, awesome private pool villas, gourmet food and a spa; and The Lalit Resort & Spa (Tel: 2237777; Tariff: ₹ 5,000–1,00,000) with multi-cusine fare, a spa and lots of activities such as canoeing and kayaking.
Nirvana @ Bekal (Tel: 2272007/ 2900, Cell: 09446463088; Tariff: ₹ 3,859–4,715) is close to the fort. Kanan Beach Resort (Tel: 2288880; Tariff: ₹ 6,500–17,000) is a beach-front property offering good food, yoga, Ayurveda and a swimming pool. Hotel Bekal Palace (Tel: 2265636-37; Tariff: ₹ 3,000–5,500) is a decent option.
Gitanjali Heritage (Tel: 04672234159, Cell: 09447469747), set in green surroundings near the ruins of the Panayal Fort, is a 65-year-old family-run heritage tharavad. Ayurvedic rejuvenation and relaxation therapies, yoga and reiki are available on request, plus traditional medicinal systems like Ottamooli. Gitanjali Heritage is also very well-equipped, with chess, carrom, badminton, a lush green jogging track and Internet facilities. Conducted tours are arranged and many traditional dishes of North Malabar cuisine are on offer. Chandralayam Homestay (Tel: 2236456, Cell: 09446772414; Tariff: ₹ 2,500–3,000) is another decent homestay.
By the Nileswaram River sits a sprawl of compact laterite stone cottages, the Gokulam Nalanda Resorts (Tel: 2282662/ 925; Tariff: ₹ 2,250–4,500), a very good base while you roam Bekal Fort and its environs. Bang on the banks of the Nileswaram river on one side and NH17 on the other, it has ample parking space and and lung space! It is among the nicest resorts in Kasargod District, and arranges houseboats on the Valiyaparamba Backwaters (only on prior request).
Bekal Boat Stay (Cell: 09447469747; W bekalboatstay.com) offers good cruise packages. Currently under maintenance, will start operations soon.
You can also stay on the Bekal Resort Development Corporation’s houseboats. Some good operators for houseboat cruises include Bekal Queen (Cell: 098460 222330, Bekal Ripples (Cell: 07025488333), Bekal Waves (Cell: 09447217626), La Costa (Cell: 09447446699) and Honey Dew (Cell: 09633416633). They can be contacted through BRDC as well.
WHERE TO EAT
The restaurants at Vivanta By Taj and The Lalit offer great multi-cuisine fare. Hotel Vasanth Vihar and Hotel Green Leaf are good vegetarian opotions that offer fantastic, steaming hot local delicacies such as idlis, dosas, vadas and appams. Viceroy Restaurant across the road from Hotel City Tower serves up excellent Malabar parottas, biryanis and seafood. In the heart of Kasargod city is the Salwa Dine Restaurant, close to the Apsara Regency. The food here is greasy but absolutely delicious, worth the antacid tablet that weaker stomachs will certainly need after a trip here! A bonus at Nalanda Resort is the restaurant, which serves excellent North Malabar fare as well.
AROUND BEKAL
Sreemad Anantheswara Vinayaka Temple, Madhur (27km)
The Madhuvahini (Payaswini) river flows in front of the Sreemad Temple, located northeast of Kasargod. The temple has a unique three-tiered dome, a copper-plated roof and a cloistered court. Scenes from the Ramayana are carved on the ceiling of the namaskara mandapam. In the wood-carved inner mukha mandapam and sukasanas are the idols of Shiva and Vinayaka. Visitors here can also take a cleansing dip in the Madhuvahini, which is believed to contain the essence of spirituality.
Timings 5.00am–1.30pm & 5.308.30pm Main Festival 5-day Vishu in April
Sree Anantha Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Ananthapura (31km)
Its quiet setting, deep within Kasargod District, belies the importance of this 9th century shrine. For the Ananthapura Temple is believed to be the moolasthanam, or original abode, of Anantha Padmanabha, an avatar of Vishnu who is the powerful deity of the famed Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram. It’s a beautiful shrine set in the middle of a small lake.
The temple authorities relate with moving passion stories of how Lord Padmanabhaswamy used to play in the precincts of the temple when he was a child. The legend is that when a meditating sage brushed him off in a moment of impatience, he created a tunnel that led right up to Thiruvananthapuram. Quite a feat, considering Ananthapura is near the very northern tip of Kerala and Trivandrum near the southernmost end. The sage spent the rest of his life searching for the child god.
Unlike the Thiruvananthapuram temple, where Maha Vishnu is seen in the Ananthashayanam (the Infinite Repose), the idol here reclines in the sitting posture. A footbridge across the lake is the only access to the sreekovil. Wooden carvings embellish the ceilings of the namaskara mandapam.
The lake is home to an ancient crocodile, somewhat improbably named Babya. Legend goes that in 1945, when British soldiers were stationed near the temple, a soldier is said to have shot a crocodile dead. This crocodile was also called Babya. The soldier died as a result of snakebite days later, believed to be an act of vengeance of the serpent god Anantha. Another crocodile mysteriously appeared here soon after. All subsequent crocodiles to have lived in the lake have been bestowed with the same name.
To get to the temple, take the diversion from Nayakkap, 5km from Kumbala, on the Kumbala-Badiadka Road. The temple is one kilometre from Nayakkap, marked by the old tharavad on a hilltop on the opposite side. The latter is said to have been relocated stone by stone from its original site elsewhere. This building will soon be turned into a heritage homestay.
Timings 5:30am–1:00pm & 5:30-8.00 pm Tel 04998-214360
TIP Men must be bare-chested and wear a mundu. Women must wear sari or salwar kameez
Puliyamkulam (35km)
Puliyamkulam is a 32-acre farm rich with trees, medicinal plants, birds and insects. P Abdul Kareem has spent the last 25 years converting this previously sun-scorched wasteland into the Kareem Forest Park. Botany experts have certified that Kareem has grown 300 species of flowering plants and increased the water table in the area. All are welcome to visit, while those truly interested in conservation can even stay here.
Tel 0467-2254283
Sreemad Anantheswara Temple, Manjeswaram (48km)
This temple, on the border of Kerala and Karnataka, is believed to have been set up when Ranga Sharma, a Gouda Saraswat Brahmana hailing from Kushasthali (Cortalim) in Goa, discovered the swayambhu idol of Anantheswara in the woods of Shankamala. The temple is set in a massive court, and has a copper-plated roof and the typical ribbed, wooden walls of Malabar.
Ranipuram (54km)
Ranipuram has shola forests, wildflowers growing in abundant profusion and verdant grasslands. The thin mist that wreathes the treetops sometimes also hides a stray herd of wild elephants. The drive to Ranipuram is pleasant and a respite from the sweltering Malabar heat at sea level to slightly cooler climate at an altitude, in a matter of a few hours. The Kasargod DTPC has a reasonably priced three-room guesthouse here.
FAST FACTS
When to go Bekal is ideally avoided during the monsoons, a time of deluges, low visibility, slushy roads and tracks. The balmy winter months are more ideal.
Tourist Offices
District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC), Vidya Nagar, Kasaragod, Tel: 04994-256450, W dtpckasargod.com
Bekal Resorts Development Corporation, Bekal, Tel: 0467-2236580, Cell: 09447793812,
W bekaltourism.com, STD codes Bekal 0467, Kasargod 04994
GETTING THERE
District Kasargod
Location Bekal Fort faces the Arabian Sea in north Malabar, 19km S of the district headquarters in Kasargod. Kasargod is 49km S of Mangalore and 93km N of Kannur
Distance 156km N of Kozhikode
Air Nearest airport: Bajpe Airport, Mangalore (69km/ 1.5hrs) is connected by daily flights to Mumbai, Bengaluru and Chennai. Prepaid taxis to Kasargod from Bajpe Airport will cost around ₹ 1,500–2,000 and to Bekal or Nileshwaram around ₹ 2,200–2,500
Rail Nearest railhead: Kasargod Station (19km/ 30 mins) is well connected to Kozhikode by the Mangalore Mail and Parashuram Express, in addition to several daily trains. The Netrvati Express connects the station with Ernakulam, Trivandrum and Mumbai, while the Mangla Lakshadweep Express goes all the way to Delhi. Mangalore Mail is also an excellent daily link to Chennai. Visitors can get a bus or taxi to Bekal Fort from the station
Road Bekal is 19km from Kasargod, connected to Mangalore (49km), Kannur (93km), Kozhikode (175km) and Mumbai (994km) by NH17
Bus Kasargod’s KSRTC Bus Stand (Tel: 04994-225677, 230677 has frequent daily services to Mangalore, Kannur, Thalassery, Kozhikode and Kochi, among other places