Chip, chip, chip, chomp. Mmm, gooey chocolate chip. The warm, fragrant welcome slows my steps down the expansive lobby to the reception desk. Sends my eyes left to the deli with its display of fine teas and supersized pastries. Helps me stop and smell the huge ball of flowers in the urn at the entrance. Gets me to pause as I lick away crumbs and step into the blocks of sunlight from the pyramidal skylights. And to look up and see the glass teardrops of the chandelier. Takes me all the way past the reception to the rippled black granite water feature in front of the Plush bar. Gets me ready for a welcome drink, to wash down that DoubleTree welcome cookie—always warm chocolate chip, anywhere in the world.
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Chip, chip, chip, peek. My heels click across white marble, granite and golden sandstone. Pretty fretwork reminiscent of the monument of love rises up at the end of the lobby, with the dim lights and deep chairs of the bar beyond. On the right, the menu of the Indian speciality restaurant, Kebab-e-que, intrigues. Tandoori tonight, for sure. But before that, the chaats at North 27 (the main all-day-diner, sitting cater-corner) for lunch. Upstairs, from my spacious corner room, I see the tangle of the town beyond the pool deck, and at the horizon, shimmering in the August heat… Wah, Taj! Down at the other end of the wing, half a level below the pool, the spa … Despite the very blocky, sturdy silhouette of this ’tree, we are definitely not just anywhere in the world—we are in India; specifically Agra.
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Chip, chip, chip, click. There’s a bit of gravel chinking in my strolley wheel, which a kind member of the housekeeping staff offers to fix right in the corridor as my keycard unlocks the door. The room is contemporary and uncluttered, but far from minimal. A daybed sits alongside the SweetDreams king bed. The signature Citron scent of the Crabtree & Evelyn toiletries lingers, as distinctively DoubleTree as that 20-chip, 2-ounce cookie. The four-fixture bathroom lacks enough space to hang up all our towels and clothes, which is some feedback to leave at least, because the amenities are otherwise flawless. Of note was the automatic muting of the TV when the phone was picked up!
Fitness is a big feature for the DoubleTree brand. The gym rivals the spa for size, both a half level down from the pool deck and the poolside lounge, which should be more popular come winter. The changing rooms are smartly located in the right angle of gym and pool, but a little detached from both. Right now, the deck is blister-inducingly hot—some of us regret leaving our slippers in the changing-room lockers and are grateful to staff who fetch towels to cushion our toasted toes and helpfully erect parasols over our belongings left on the loungers. Thus the Culture of Care the brand espouses. They do make a point of their service standards—sweetly. The bitten-cookie paper sack I was handed at welcome reminds me that ‘stressed spelled backwards is desserts’. The keycard folder urges me to ‘open doors you never knew existed’. Another card sitting on the desk, at the elbow of the ergonomic chair, assures me of their eagerness to ‘Make it Right’ if I am not satisfied with my stay. Another asks me to ‘Catch Me at My Best’ and commend exceptional service by naming names, in person, in writing, or online. Pity, I could not leave a note.
On the other hand, I was able to thank Chef JK in person for sending up the North 27’s full range of chaats to the room! There were bedhmi puris, with a mildly spiced potato sabzi; a football of a raj kachori spilling Bengal gram, vermicelli, pomegranate, sweetened curd, tamarind and mint chutneys; crisp mungodis with chaat masala; my favourite aloo-matar chaat with yellow, which got quickly displaced by the pateela matar of mashed peas; the excellent dal biji of whole masoor; and finally a paan-flavoured gilori petha. Best idea ever for a courseless luncheon! All well-executed, not too watered-down and quite authentic.
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Not too stuffed to swim, thanks to that good idea, I go over to sun and splash, stare at the Taj and peer down at the tour bus disgorging a group of travellers under the portico. I delay dinner and arrive at Kebab-e-que late—unlike the more European timings of North 27, this one keeps Indian hours for supper.
It is like stepping through a door into wonderland. The elegant international feel of the lobby now gives way to distinctly Indian. The big gong at the entrance to ring myself in and express resounding approval on retreat; the glasshouse of the show kitchen lined with earthen pots in front of metal tandoors; the distinctive 1970s restaurant and clubhouse jugs; the black-lined brightness of beaten copper lampshades clustered high… Alice would be awed; I make myself right at home. I begin with the kebab platter and a very moreish yakhni shorba, and the kakori in the mini roomali rolls proves excellent, as does the hara bhara, but it is the tandoori salmon and the mustard oil-marinated falon ki chaat that prove to be revelations. They set the tone for the main course. Despite the classic dal makhni with keema kulcha and Awadhi chicken biryani, there are some surprising choices surpassing the typical Indian menu—and they are surprisingly good. The mustard-flavoured fish curry takes me homewards but not quite—just enough of the unfamiliar to keep it interesting. The chicken curry with kasoori methi bears repeating. The Paneer Badami in creamy almond gravy surprises, with a tangy layer of green chutney in the triangles. The Aloo Hing Dhaniya is a nice light vegetarian side to please the pickiest palate. And the dramatic Nargisi Ande ka Salan is my best recommendation for a special-occasion meal. Close the deal with the Badshahi Tukda, requested specially from the other kitchen.
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Their acumen makes me jealous of any unseen wedding or engagement parties planned this long weekend. Tucked away to one side at the back is a 4,700 sq ft ballroom and an open-air pre-function area. Four meeting rooms too.
Next day, it’s time for a spa break. It proves saltier than expected, despite the orange peel and rose petals. The foot reflexologist is good at her job, though.
For dinner that evening, I down an appetiser shot and order some pizzas. The oven is front and centre, and justifies its position of pride. Those pizzas, the potage jardienere and a creamy ravioli leave the strongest impressions.
For a mid- to upscale brand, they have certainly splashed out on five-star service and plenty of choice. Even the oddball location cannot but be forgiven, once that cookie comes out of the bag. Unless you end up with rooms in the back, facing a construction site—call ahead, perhaps? And they are not even done. There’s that poolside lounge plan, for one. And I will be happy to raise a toast—or four—when that bar licence finally makes a splash for this festive season.
The information
Where: B/H-1&2, Taj Nagri Phase II, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001. 10km from Agra airport, 221km/3hr from Delhi Airport.
Accommodation: 104 rooms. 65 King/Twin Guest Rooms with Lawn/City View, 28 King/Twin Guest Rooms with Pool View, 4 King Guest Rooms with Taj View, 4 King Deluxe Rooms with Taj View, 2 King One Bedroom Suites with Taj View, 1 Presidential Suite.
Tariff: Rs 8,500 (Guest Room), Rs 9,000 (Pool View Room), Rs 9,500 (Taj View Room), Rs 10,500 (Deluxe Taj View Room), Rs 19,500 (One Bed room Suite), Rs 23,500 (Presidential Suite). Check the website for attractive discounts.
Contact: +91-562-7102323, www.doubletree.com