The Delhi-Attari stretch is all about smuggling between India and Pakistan, if I may say so. There is no security-check to speak of at Delhi or at Attari on the way back to Delhi. Why not simply have a train between Amritsar and Lahore?

BY Veeresh Malik 18 February 2007

The going rate to clear an unpaid 'nil' bill, if I recall correctly, was Rs 100 in non-receipted cash in an age when you could rent a three-bedroom house in Defence Colony for all of Rs 1,000.

BY Veeresh Malik 13 April 2006

We really thought that our man in Pakistan was headed home, but while he has been back in India for months now, his heart, it seems, is still there, lingering there...else why would his travelogue still continue? Now the Islamabad-Lahore stretch...

BY Veeresh Malik 25 August 2004

Over three months after my visit, we see new PMs in both countries, POWs being returned, and signs of sensible movements all around. Pakistani and Indian Army wives exchanging pleasantries at gatherings on the IB - how much more normal does it get?

BY Veeresh Malik 5 August 2004

Remember our man in Islamabad who, last heard, was waiting for the Chief Guest at a Lahore production of the Phantom of the Opera? Well, he was, in his own words, "able to put the complete Indo-Pak, Hindu-Muslim pissing-competition observation

BY Veeresh Malik 16 June 2004

It was just another touristy day for our man from Delhi as he continued his peregrinations in and around Pindi till he was very politely urged not to head for Murree by two smart middle-aged men, wearing blue-grey shalwar kameez, who identified thems

BY Veeresh Malik 24 May 2004

Our man from Delhi continues from where he left off - wondering where the women are, sharing weird jokes with Chacha Green Cricket and--apart from somehow trying to insinuate something very surreptitious and secret--concluding that "even our Chinese

BY Veeresh Malik 11 May 2004

"Ram Chander!! Ram Chander!!"... A group of very rural looking men in white dhotis with big metal rings around their necks are bawling the Lord's name at every carriage as it rolls past. Later on, I am told that the ring around the neck

BY Veeresh Malik 3 May 2004

Do you love trains too? I can never sleep on them. This is one contented train whistling North. Even the variety of cops who pass through every now and then smile indulgently... Continued from The Journey Of A Life Time.

BY Veeresh Malik 26 April 2004

Dad passed away on the 16th of February, earlier this year. I am now 47, had more than 70 countries under my belt before I was 27, but this trip with my 18 year old son was going to be different, like nothing else before.

BY Veeresh Malik 22 April 2004