We sped up and followed the tiger in fading dull light, from behind, shooting off photos as though they were going out of fashion. And yes, to be honest, we were all thrilled to bits. Later that evening, when the light had almost gone, we spotted the same tiger again, Well, we spotted the noisy traffic jam first. A crowd of jeeps, with everyone standing up, with everyone staring at an indistinct shape in the water, far away. More vehicles kept arriving, and people swarmed from their vehicles at the back of the crowd, onto the vehicles ahead, jostling, craning for a view of the head of the tiger emerging from the water, probably about half a kilometre away. All of which begs the question— why is game viewing in India so totally tiger-centric, to the exclusion of all else?