East Of West

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Meal for two: Rs 800-1,000
Rating: ***

wonder why Lebanese food hasn’t become more popular. With its fusion of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean themes, it seems well suited to today’s Indian tastes. Cedars must be one of the few Lebanese restaurants in the country. Located in a bungalow in Adyar, it has a simple, almost rustic feel, with its indigo walls and art photographs of Lebanese village life. Try the mezze platter—an array of little delicacies, like taziki, made from cottage cheese, cucumber and mint; loubieh bezit, or beans in a delicious cinnamon-tomato sauce; moutabal, or grilled brinjal with sesame and lemon; and two different kinds of salad, tabouleh and fattoush. It’s almost a meal by itself, accompanied with pita bread. The grills are good—chicken, lamb and prawn—with a characteristic halo of garlic. But it’s a pity there are no typical Lebanese desserts, like baklava, so we suggest you simply end with kahwe, black coffee, or mint tea. When it started, Cedars had a chef from Lebanon and last time we rather missed his touch. But that didn’t seem to prevent the Israeli businessmen at the next table from enjoying their dinner very volubly.