I dread going to the Jama Masjid area in old Delhi. It is so crowded, dirty and smelly that there has to besome special reason for me to venture to that part of town. However, one evening recently, I was trudgingalong the Urdu Bazaar. This time I was going to meet Maulana Naeem Ahmad Qasmi. He had called me to meet himin the Naaz Hotel, housed in a yellow colored eyesore of a building, right behind the sprawling Jama Masjid.Soon I was in front of the hotel, the stench of rotting fish and disemboweled chicken still fresh in my mind.