Vallarpadam, for people living with the sea breeze on Kochi’s backwaters, is miracle town. One among the many small islands that dot the landscape, the Vallarpadam church is where all the magic happens. Of special significance is the Mother Mary painting hanging in its deep recesses. Vallarpadathamma (Mother of Vallarpadam) has a curious history that dates back to the 16th century. The Portuguese had established a small shed as a church for the Holy Spirit on the island and installed a wooden painting of Mother Mary and child titled ‘Blessed Mary of Mercy’ that they had brought from Portugal. In the floods of 1676, the church was washed away and when the Diwan (prime minister), Paliyath Raman Valiyachan, was out surveying the damage by boat, he found the picture floating in the waters. He picked it up and was instantly taken by it. He donated an acre-and-a-half of land to build a church and also donated two lamps and a year’s supply of oil to keep it lit all year long. (Even today, on feast day, September 24, the fire in the lamps are put out and a member of the Paliyath family lights the lamps for the next year.)