I was ten and my father’s brother (my favourite uncle whom I still call daddy) had just bought the most magical bungalow in the hill station of Matheran. It had 200-year-old trees, British-era monkey tops and weathered planter’s chairs. The corridors were long and wide enough to run races three in a row. If you hid behind the teak four-poster bed that almost came up to your shoulder somewhere deep in the maze of rooms, there was a chance nobody would ever find you, except maybe a snake. Summers there changed my childhood.




