IT probably has more electricians per square kilometre than any other town in India. Roadside vegetable vendors sell kerosene lamps, booksellers stock gas-lamps and you can clinch a deal for a pair of monster batteries used to run invertors at the barber's or the STD booth. The people of Bhagalpur in north Bihar have, as a class, improvised. They don't have a choice, really. Not when you get about nine hours of electricity in 24. At best. In the winter. During summer the power supply ranges between three and six hours. It has spawned a sub-culture of powerlessness.