Who Was Nirmal Purja ? Gurkha Turned Record Breaking Mountaineer Killed In Pak Avalanche

Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja, the Nepal-born former Gurkha soldier who became one of the world’s most recognised high-altitude mountaineers, has died in an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, bringing an end to the career of a climber known for his record-setting achievements on the world’s highest mountains.

Purja, 43, was among 10 climbers who went missing after an avalanche struck during an international expedition in the Shigar district of Gilgit-Baltistan. His adventure company, Elite Exped, confirmed his death in an Instagram statement on Saturday, August 1.

“Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja, tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” the company said.

The company also confirmed that other expedition members did not survive, including Pur Bahadur Gurung and Nima Sherpa, and expressed condolences to the families of those killed.

The climbers lost contact with base camp after the avalanche struck while they were attempting to climb Broad Peak, which stands at 8,051 metres in Pakistan’s Karakoram range near K2. The mountain is the world’s 12th-highest peak and is considered one of the most challenging climbs.

The expedition included five Nepali climbers, Omani climber Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy, American climber Sarah Mallory, Pakistani climber Suhail Shahzad, Chinese climber Wang Zhong and another foreign climber, according to reports.

Experienced Pakistani climbers and army helicopters were involved in the search and rescue operation after the team lost communication.

From Nepal’s Hills To Britain’s Elite Forces

Born in Nepal, Purja’s early ambition was to become a Gurkha, following the path of his father and elder brothers.

Purja joined the Gurkha Regiment in 2003 at the age of 18. He spent six years with the Gurkhas before becoming the first person from the regiment to join Britain’s Special Boat Service (SBS).

During his 16-year military career, Purja served in the elite unit and became a specialist in cold-weather warfare. Alongside his military service, he pursued academic studies and completed a Post-Graduate Diploma in Security Management at Loughborough University’s Business School.

It was during his military years that Purja developed an interest in mountaineering. In December 2012, while on leave, he travelled to Everest Base Camp, beginning a journey that would later take him to the highest peaks in the world.

He climbed Mount Everest for the first time in 2016. A year later, he led an expedition of 13 Gurkhas to Everest to commemorate 200 years of Gurkha service to the British Army.

Soon afterwards, he achieved his first major mountaineering record by climbing Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within five days.

Project Possible Challenge

Purja gained international recognition through Project Possible, an attempt to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres in record time.

When the challenge began in April 2019, only a limited number of climbers had completed all 14 peaks. The existing record stood at nearly eight years, but Purja aimed to complete the feat in seven months.

He completed Project Possible in six months and six days, breaking seven world records during the expedition.

The achievement was later featured in the Netflix documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible”, which followed Purja and his team during the demanding climbs. He also wrote a book about his experiences.

Although his 2019 speed record was later surpassed, Purja continued to hold several mountaineering records, including achievements involving rapid ascents of multiple 8,000-metre peaks.

He also became the first person to summit all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres twice without supplementary oxygen, according to reports.

Recognition From Loughborough University

Purja’s achievements were recognised by Loughborough University when he received an Honorary Degree in winter 2023.

The university described him as a multi-world-record-breaking mountaineer whose career reflected both military service and achievements in extreme climbing.

The honorary degree citation highlighted his journey from the Gurkha Regiment to the Special Boat Service and later to international recognition in mountaineering.

It also noted his connection with the university through the Business School, where he completed his Post-Graduate Diploma in Security Management.

A Legacy Beyond Records

Beyond his climbing achievements, Purja was known for supporting fellow mountaineers and contributing to Himalayan communities.

He established the Nimsdai Foundation, which works on educational, technological and capacity-building initiatives in Nepal. The foundation also supports environmental projects aimed at protecting mountain ecosystems affected by tourism.

It provides assistance to military veterans pursuing mountaineering goals and reflects Purja’s focus on giving back to communities connected with the Himalayas.

Purja’s career combined military discipline, endurance and high-altitude climbing. From his service with the Gurkhas and the Special Boat Service to his record-breaking expeditions, he became one of the most prominent figures in modern mountaineering.

His death on Broad Peak marks the loss of a climber who reshaped perceptions of what was possible in extreme altitude climbing and left a lasting mark on the sport