Being one of the easternmost, not to mention hard to traverse states in India, Arunachal Pradesh doesn’t receive too many tourists. The population density of the state is 17 people per sq km, so you won’t really see many people during your travels. Most shops are concentrated in market areas in main towns; and food is available in small restaurants attached to the houses of local people (in a few villages) on roads that connect one town to another. However, due to its remoteness, there are very minimal choices in food.
Since Arunachal Pradesh shares its borders with China, Bhutan and Myanmar, it is mandatory to acquire inner line permits before you begin your trip to the state. Travelling here is relatively safe – locals are friendly and helpful and the Indian Army has a heavy presence almost everywhere. However, the terrain and the unpredictable weather conditions can play spoilsport at times.
Inner Line Permits
The most important thing to remember while travelling here is to secure Inner Line Permits (ILP). Indian citizens need permits to visit Arunachal Pradesh, while foreign nationals need additional clearance. Travel agents in any one of the large cities such as Guwahati or Kolkata can organise the necessary paperwork and help you acquire permits.
Every circuit in Arunachal Pradesh requires a specific permit. For example, the permit for Tawang circuit will only give you access to western parts of the state. Trips to Itanagar and Ziro will need separate permits. You can log on to W arunachalpradesh.gov.in to apply for Inner Line Permits. The Arunachal Bhavan on Kautilya Marg in New Delhi can issue a combined permit for the circuits you wish to visit, for a maximum period of 15 days. The Arunachal Tourism counter at the Guwahati Airport can also help you obtain a permit. Keep your passport or any other government issued identity card (and its photocopies) and passport size photographs handy when applying for Inner Line Permits.
You can also contact Help Tourism (Kolkata Cell: 09831031980) for assistance with permits and travel in the state. They have extensive information about the area and will readily address your queries.
Getting Around
Public transport is scarce in Arunachal Pradesh. You can hire a car either from Guwahati or Dibrugarh to get around in the state. Remember that nothing short of a four-wheel drive will do to conquer the treacherous terrain here. So expect to shell out around ₹5,000 per day for an Innova or a Scorpio, if you want to opt for a private cab. Alternately, most towns have tour agents who operate cabs from one destination to another and you can buy a ticket for your journey.
Road connectivity is limited here. It is not possible to start at one point and head to the next circuit. For instance, if you are heading to Tawang after entering the state from Assam, near Bhalukpong, and you wish to visit Ziro next, you can’t just head to Ziro directly from Tawang. There’s only one main road, so you have to travel all the way back to Bhalukpong, then enter Assam at Nameri National Park, get to Itanagar, and then head to Ziro. This applies to most places in the state. For this reason, it is essential to have two base cities – Guwahati and Dibrugarh – if you wish to travel to different places in Arunachal. Guwahati is well connected to the western side and Dibrugarh to the central and eastern sides of the state.
Time Management
The sun rises as early as 4.50am in Arunachal Pradesh. So the days here start very early and end early too. If you’re from the western or central parts of India, you might have to adjust your sleep cycle accordingly. It is advisable to start your travels (all of which have to be done during the day) as early as 6.00am and reach your destination by 5.00pm, maximum. After this time, the roads are covered by mist and it gets dark; lack of streetlights and bad road conditions makes road travel hazardous once the sun sets. Remember to include travel days in your itinerary.
Also remember to not calculate the travel time based on the number of kilometres between one town to another, the way you would do it in other parts of the country. A distance of about 200km can take up to 10 hours here because of the terrain and road conditions.
Road Conditions
As a result of the near constant rain, heavy snowfall and landslides the roads in Arunachal Pradesh are far from good.
If you’re travelling in the Tawang circuit, gear up for a bumpy ride. The hills beyond Bhalukpong are perpetually enveloped in mist. The road from Bomdila to Sela Pass is decent but once you cross the pass, the road up to Jang is nothing but mud. It will mostly seem like you’re in an off-road drag race, and it is imperative to fasten your seat belts here. The journey itself is an adventure. It is advisable to take necessary medication in case you have altitude or motion sickness.
When you enter Arunachal Pradesh near Itanagar, a broad, well-marked road welcomes you. Just when you think that this part of the state has better roads, ditches and mud start to appear en route to Ziro Valley. The eastern parts of the state with plains, has decent roads but the northeastern parts, home to the Mishmi Hills, are just as bad.
Food and Stay
If you’re a fussy eater, Arunachal Pradesh will be a hard place for you to be. It’s advisable to be open to whatever is available and make the best of it. Restaurants and dhabas don’t flank the state highways here. Food is only available in certain villages. Lunch usually consists of rice with vegetables and roasted meat – fish/chicken – on the side (to order), which is known as “khana”. Apart from this, most small places serve Maggie, chowmein and momos. Some restaurants in towns serve thenthuk, thukpa and roti, but that is usually during dinner.
Several homestays and hotels are available in Arunachal Pradesh. Although it is advisable to book in advance, remember that there is a chance your schedule can go awry in bad weather conditions. Most hotels and homestays here serve food prepared in their private kitchens so don’t expect anything fancy.
Travel Tips
Avoid travelling during the monsoons. Many areas get flooded and roads can get washed away due to landslides in hilly areas. Winters can get quite cold and snow can block high mountain roads from December to February. March, April, first half of May and October are ideal for travel.
Make sure to carry medicines and toiletries as remote towns do not have pharmacies or supplies. Carry sturdy shoes, umbrellas and woollens as they are essential in the rough terrain and fickle weather that this region is famous for.
English and Hindi work as the lingua franca in most places. The locals tend to be helpful as long as you respect their culture and way of life. Things move at a slow pace here and travel plans can get derailed at times, but it is important not to loose your cool. In the more remote regions, it is advisable to not venture outside your hotel at night.
Travelling in Arunachal Pradesh is an experience unlike any other; a little planning and precaution will ensure that you have an exciting, enjoyable and memorable trip.