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With An Oven-Sized Oomph

Nico Bombay is a worthy addition to Mumbai’s buzzy, busy art and culture district

With An Oven-Sized Oomph
With An Oven-Sized Oomph

Nico Bombay
105, Apollo Street, Fort, Mumbai
Meal for two:?Rs 2,000

Nico Bombay, a  swish restaurant with cylindrical glass light, large arched windows and a mammoth, wood-fired oven has a chic, New York feel about it.

The small menu has eno­ugh enticements to cause indecision. After eyeing the Kadaifi wrapped prawns with citrus mousseline and padron peppers with smoked mozzare­lla, we settled for two starters. The crab meat, shrimp croquettes with dabs of sweet chilli mango (Rs 450) were crisp and bursting with flavour. While the salt and pepper calamari (Rs 400) were fried to perfection. Of the pizzas, called ‘Neapolitan Flat Bread’, the Margarita (Rs 560) was enjoyable, but the Beirut (Rs 755), with its chunks of goat meat, melty dill cream and sprinkling of pine nuts was spectacular.

The chicken, strawberry and avocado sandwich was tempting, but we decided on a beef steak sandwich with caramelised onions, grain mustard and cheese (Rs 375).

The saffron risotto with calamari, clams and parmesan foam (Rs 675) was a trifle stodgy and could have done with a richer flavour. While the spaghetti with prawn, crab and calamari in a tom­ato sauce (Rs 675) possessed a hearty, home-cooked air.

For dessert we tucked into a yummy chocolate cake (Rs 250), drizzled with caramel sauce and a delicate Creme Brulee (Rs 250) with a crackly, golden-brown crust.

The dessert menu could have done with a few more choices, as could the vegetarian fare. But all in all a lovely meal—amidst black-and-white tiles, old mirrors and that distinctive charm the Kala Ghoda area seems to naturally possess.

Clearly, Nico Bombay is a worthy addition to the city’s buzzy, busy art and culture district.

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