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Sunday, Oct 24, 2021
Outlook.com

Picking Through Food

Maryam Reshi dines Ritu Dalmia

Picking Through Food
Picking Through Food
outlookindia.com
-0001-11-30T00:00:00+05:53
When I call Ritu Dalmia to invite her for lunch to a place of her choice, she’s touchingly pleased. "You mean, you really want to be seen in a restaurant with me?" she asks. I’m mystified at first, but reality dawns soon enough. No restaurateur worth his salt will be satisfied until he’s turned the plates upside down to look at the manufacturer’s name, held the glassware up to the light to discover whether they’re Indian or imported, bounced on the chairs to test their comfort levels and taken the food apart with a fine toothcomb. She’s in excellent company for once because the job of a restaurant critic is just that. We spend the first five minutes of our arrival in Ego Thai drinking in the staff uniforms, the coffee machine, the chopstick stands, the equipment for the live soup counter.

Ritu’s very choice of restaurant is piquant to start with. Bina Modi, who owns Ego Thai, doesn’t need to earn a living. Ritu Dalmia, who owns Diva, doesn’t either. Both are from the same conservative community and both probably launched their unconventional professional...

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