December 10, 2019
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Mami’s Special

It takes unassailable confidence and deep pockets to sell vegetarian south Indian food at upscale prices in the city

Mami’s Special
Jagadeesh N.V.
Mami’s Special
outlookindia.com
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Rasa India
514B CMH Road, Indiranagar, Bangalore 560032
Tel: 41518237
Meal for two:?Rs 1,000

It takes unassailable confidence and deep pockets to sell vegetarian south Indian food at upscale prices in the city. The people beh­ind Rasa —the first outpost of the UK-based chain —obviously have both. Spread across an upper floor in a busy semi- commercial area, Rasa was woefully underoccupied on both our visits. Service was slow if amiable at dinner (a la carte) and at lunch only four set menus are available.

Each time, though, the food blew us away. Served in cou­r­ses, the Super Set Lunch (Rs 300) opened with a selection of pappadams and pickles and continued with four curries (a Tamil sambar, Kerala-style aviyal, pachadi, tho­ran), rice and chapattis, win­ding up with a rice paya­sam. The portions were unlimi­ted, the tastes impeccably balanced and the cooking was low on oil. This is food, I presume, one would grow up eating in a health-conscious south Indian hou­sehold. We returned one evening to sample the more extensive dinner menu, starting with masala idlis (a potato mash embedded in rice idlis, Rs 195), and aubergine tikki (Rs 195), flat gram flour fritters that were incredibly light, especially after tissues had soaked up the excess oil. From the 10 ‘curries’ (Rs 250 each), we chose a mild, tangy beetroot and spinach curry in a yogurt base that countered the more emphatic tomato and black-eyed beans curry. As accompaniments, we chose appams (Rs 80; they could have been slightly more crisp) and, to conclude, the dry fruits-heavy kesaribath and the coconut milk-and-jaggery- based bamboo seed pudding (Rs 150 each). We didn’t go  back for dess­erts, but for those of us not privileged to have south Ind­ian grandmoms, the Rasa kit­chen is the next best thing.

 

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