V.B. Gandhi Marg, Kala Ghoda
Meal for two:?Rs 1,200
Bright bougainvillae spilling out of window-boxes fitted into mock windows. Fat wads of corrugated cardboard framing mirrors. An old clipboard working as clock. The Nutcracker is clearly of a piece with the new breed of Mumbai eateries that boast casual menus, funky decor and a happy vibe. And although six tables, an army of cheery waiters and large platters of food are a squash and a squeeze in that tiny space, no one seems to be complaining.
The Nutcracker is the newest kid on the restaurant block at Kala Ghoda. On Sunday morning, the busy stockbrokers and lawyers are missing, but there are enough people on a quest for pancakes and panini. Many are tempted by the charming new eatery with its promise of all-day breakfasts and other ‘eggetarian’ fare.
Getting a table is a bit of a wait. But once seated, the service is brisk, and we’re soon tucking into a wholesome brunch. The Asian Salad (Rs 240) is a crunchy mix of zucchini, carrot and raw papaya, tossed with peanuts and a zingy chilli dressing. The Fruit, Root and Nut Salad (Rs 240) is a bowl of fresh greens, strawberries, apples and fried sweet potatoes in vinaigrette.
We order three eggy dishes. The Akuri (Rs 130) and Salli Eggs (Rs 190) are authentic Parsi fare but have too much haldi for my taste. The Three Cheese Omelette (Rs 200) is filling. But the Warm Lebanese Sandwich (Rs 260), with its saucy dressing and hummus, is the real winner.
The children love their Grilled Cheese Sandwich (Rs 230) of delicious multigrain bread and the nutty bagel topped with a herby cream cheese (Rs 160). Also to die for are the fluffy Buttermilk Pancakes served with blueberry compote and melted butter (Rs 210).
Denouement is a Seven Layer Cookie, a sinful treat of buttery biscuit crumbs, melty chocolate and butterscotch served with vanilla ice cream (Rs 260).