Food is uppermost on my mind whenever I go to Madras—as I still call Chennai because Madras is the emotion I’ve known since 1969 when I first set sight on India’s “intellectual capital”, as Nehru called it. And, Madras never disappoints the food-loving Madrasi, often called Sappatturaman by older folks who cannot bear to see hearty eaters. There’s always something new to tickle the taste buds.