It's past midnight on a Monday but the lanes of Puraani Dilli are choc-a-block with people as if it were only just 8 in the evening. This is the last night of Ramazaan before it's Eid. There isn't a shop in sight that is closed. Eager vendors displaying their goods call out to shoppers jostling and elbowing their way through, slipping into tiny hotels that line the maze of gullies that surround Jama Masjid.