It was late on a thick, foggy night in December 1999 that we were returning from dinner in Lahore’s Gulberg area to our guest house. The retired general at the wheel was talking about Pakistan’s politics—it was less than two months since General Pervez Musharraf had conducted his coup. The drive seemed longer than usual and I asked, “General, are we lost?” “You should know by now that generals are never lost in Pakistan. Hainji?” he winked.