Sounds like the start of a bad joke, right? Except this isn’t fiction — it’s the real story of what happened a few years ago in Chikkamagaluru, in my home state Karnataka. A small hill town known for coffee and eccentric coffee planters, Chikkamagaluru has its own unique ecosystem — and not just in the surrounding coffee plantations. The town’s weekly farmer’s market, or santhe, turns its two main streets into a carnival of chaos: out-of-town farmers bartering over produce and basic necessities, ex-jutka horses wondering why they retired, stray cows competing for old newspapers to munch on, small-time politicians running imaginary campaigns and hordes of townspeople, of all ages, cruising the streets on foot, for no reason at all — just like my cousins and I did as school kids when we landed up there to visit our grandparents during summer holidays.