On a sultry afternoon, there is little to break the stillness of the sparsely populated Balali village, except for the slow, continuous chomping of buffaloes that dot the narrow windy roads, guarded on both sides by endless fields of lush wheat and sunflower. Perched on the edge of the Bhiwani district of Haryana, all 668 hectares of the wet, green village, embellished with old-style bungalows, with their big aangans, seem to have stepped right out of Subhash Ghai’s Pardes. There is not a soul to be seen until late in the evening, when the Amrish Puri-esque Mahavir Singh Phogat comes out of his house to pigeon call all his students for the second round of training—“chalo chalo chalo”.