Platefuls Of Thanjavur

Tanjore By Angie
Bela Court, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Mumbai
Tel: 7045358737/ 7045348737
Meal for two:?Rs 600

Six tables squeezed into a narrow space in a not-so-happening corner of Colaba may not sound like much cause for excitement. But this tiny new res­taurant—which serves traditional, vegetarian Tamil food—has piqued curiosity.

On a Sunday morning, we grab the last available table. Tanjore is still finding its feet. There’s confusion over availability of tables. The staff looks uncertain when you ask for a dish by its name. A number of specialties are not available or “will take a verrry long time to make”. This is the bad news.

The good news is that the food is excellent. The Vasantha Neer turns out to be a refreshing and healthy drink made with coconut water, lime juice, honey and neem leaves (Rs 90).  The Cocktail Idlis (Rs 160)—baby idlis slathered in desi ghee and served with a vegetable-rich, authentic Tamil sambar—are soft and addictive. The Ney Roast (Rs 160)—a small, crisp paper dosa—is a work of perfection. While I prefer the fluffy appams served by Kerala eateries, the children are to be seen gobbling up the Tanjore Aappam (Rs 180). And I enjoy the delicate, coc­o­nutty avial served alongside.

My Puliyogare Rice (Rs 180), a temple-style tamarind rice served with a Tamil version of dahi kadi, is tangy and delicious. And my husband Vivek, who has grown up on this cuisine, is immensely satisfied with his Mini Thanjavur Meal (Rs 240), with its puffy puris, home-style vegetables and excellent sambar.

The rasam that comes with the meal though, is overwhelmingly garlicky. While the Adai (Rs 170), a lentil-based pancake, is too hearty and flat.

Nevertheless, Tanjore is a welcome addition. And we leave hoping that the restaurant soon irons out its wrinkles and survives to become a Colaba institution.